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Thread: Crossover tube plug troubles

  1. #1
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    Crossover tube plug troubles

    I received the beautiful SS crossover tube plug from fastblackmerc this week, and had a few minutes so I thought I'd install it.

    I used 1/4 to 3/8 to 1/2 adapters on a 1/2 inch wrench to try to take the old one out.

    Promptly broke the 1/4 in the crossover tube plug, yeah it's in there good...
    It wasn't that long ago that I had it off for burping, and this is a southern car so no rust issues.

    Any suggestions for removal?

    Thanks,
    Jim
    ~Jim

    2004 Mercury Marauder SB

  2. #2
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    Channel locks, 430's worked great, but pliers, or vice grips , or a pipe wrench will work too....you just need to bite the outer edge of the plug with whatever you have. When you reinstall your new one, put some anti seize on just the threads.
    Last edited by whitey; 11-27-2013 at 04:24 PM.

  3. #3
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    Can you fit a screw remover bit into the hole?

    http://www.homedepot.com/p/Vermont-A...9#.UpZ_5ZCA2M8

    I've had a set of these Vermont American Screw Extractor bits for years and they work wonders.

    If not.....as Whitey said Vice Grips will work with some exterior damage to the plug.
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  4. #4
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    I had to use a long 1/4 ratchet along with a good pair of pliers. Knipex are my all time favorite. An extra pair of hands helps so you don't accidentally catch the edge of the actual COT & gall it.

    Last edited by fordmike65; 11-27-2013 at 04:38 PM.

  5. #5
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    Use vise grips being careful to just grab the plug.
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  6. #6
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    I been trying to get mine off to seems the 300a's lock in really flat . I know Pete out of Newport with his 04 marauder had no issues .
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  7. #7
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    Another vote for Channel locks. Its the tool I usually go to. Just make sure you get a good tight grip to do least amount of damage.

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  8. #8
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    You will find it easier to remove when the pipe is hot. My preferred way to do this is just to drive the car around until it is up to operating temperature. Then I just park and 'crack' the plug enough to get it loose (but leave it in place). Check the coolant level (or in your case, replace the plug) when the car has cooled off completely.

    I always do this, and I feel that it reduces stress on the pipe, threads, and plug.
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  9. #9
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    I've been messing with these plugs since they were used on Continentals in the late 90's. There are two reasons why the plugs get stuck.

    First, change the O-ring whenever you remove/install the plug. The coolant leeches up into the threads and corrodes them, making it impossible to loosen in the future. Now if that happens, #2 is to mix up a 50/50 mix of Acetone and Mercon V trans fluid. Use that as a penatrating oil around the edge of the plug. If you can see corrosion along the plug seam, you may have to do this a few times with a few hours wait in between.

    Next, take 2 ball peen hammers (or a regular hammer I guess). Press the striking end of one of the hammers against the side of the sealing gap. The take the other hammer and tap the OPPOSITE side from the stationary hammer. Move each hammer around the circumference of the plug. Do this a few times. Then Tap on the top face of the plug a few times. You don't have to hit anything hard enough to cause dents in the metal, just some harmonic vibrations through the metal.

    Then take the 1/4 drive breaker bar and loosen the plug. I have literally done 50 plus of these stuck plugs in MM's, Mark 8's and Continentals over the years.

    Last, Clean the plug and the bore it goes in and change the o-ring! The size is 9/16" ID, 11/16" OD and 1/16" thickness. Use anti-seize on the threads only.

    Follow this and you can take the plug off/on as much as you want without fear.

    I had a friend's car the shop broke the breaker bar off in the plug head and then said they didn't need to burp the system anyway. It overheated. I used the Acetone/Mercon V and hammer tapped and then used vice grips and the plug just spun out like it was loose.

    Since the OEM plug is discontinued from Ford, I get them from wrecking yards to have as spares.
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  10. #10
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    I had trouble removing the plug from an old Cobra I had a few years ago. I used a hacksaw to cut a groove across the top of the plug, then a chisel and hammer to tap the groove to start the plug turning to the right. Not pretty, but it worked quite well and after applying some black paint to the freshly cut groove it was good for future plug removal.
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  11. #11
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    A little light "Hammer Shock" gets it out every time!!
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  12. #12
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    Crossover tube plug troubles

    Can you post a pic of the new plug you received?
    Thanks

  13. #13
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    I just put my Craftsman 1/4 inch drive ratchet onto the factory plug hole. Gave a good yank and it spun right out. Then, before installing Jims polished plug, lots of anti-sieze. The 10 inch crescent wrench installed Jims plug in seconds. No leaks..total time...3 minutes start to finish.

    Went back inside to watch the game as commercials were now over.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by jsignorelli View Post
    I just put my Craftsman 1/4 inch drive ratchet onto the factory plug hole. Gave a good yank and it spun right out. Then, before installing Jims polished plug, lots of anti-sieze. The 10 inch crescent wrench installed Jims plug in seconds. No leaks..total time...3 minutes start to finish.

    Went back inside to watch the game as commercials were now over.

    The problem is the 1/4 inch drive broke off in the factory plug hole, so that's not an option.
    ~Jim

    2004 Mercury Marauder SB

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by jsignorelli View Post
    I just put my Craftsman 1/4 inch drive ratchet onto the factory plug hole. Gave a good yank and it spun right out. Then, before installing Jims polished plug, lots of anti-sieze. The 10 inch crescent wrench installed Jims plug in seconds. No leaks..total time...3 minutes start to finish.

    Went back inside to watch the game as commercials were now over.
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