So I added another gallon. Stuff's gettin real up in here! Gonna put another bung in for a drain line then POR 15 her up so she don't rust. Thats a -12 outlet there.
So I added another gallon. Stuff's gettin real up in here! Gonna put another bung in for a drain line then POR 15 her up so she don't rust. Thats a -12 outlet there.
~Chris
sumpage. 3/4 inch outlet is huge
2010 fusion se
Huge pump going behind it.
~Chris
Holy crap that's big! Need say more pics.
Looks interesting, what is your fuel system going to consist of? I ask because those darn external pumps get real hot in the summer when driven a long time. Are you going to run something to slow down the pump when not in boost? Can't wait to see your whipple project finished.
Aeromotive Pro Series pump with the pump controller for the street and a fuel cooler on the return side.
I am wondering if the pump can supply enough fuel while always stepped down from the controller. Got a good deal on that pump with the controller or we probably would have went with the eliminator.
And would like to run it on E85 too. Do you know how much HP you make on the E85?
Last edited by Blown3.8; 03-07-2012 at 10:18 AM.
~Chris
Wiring the controller would be a good idea, you can still leave the pump run full time with the controller installed, if the pump and fuel gets hot you can just set it to come on above a certain rpm. I've used one in the past and its easy to use and works well.
My motor is stock so I am running the stock 9 psi with 18 degrees of timing, although the runs had about 130 degree IATs and was pulling 4 degrees out, so 14 degrees toatal. It made 433 hp and 440 torque. There is so much motor in it, but it will have to do until I get a better bottom end. Then it will be maxed out on whatever the triligy inlet will let in.
Forgot to mention, the converter is unlocked at wide open throttle so I am loosing a little from slippage but I made him do it that way because it is easier on all the parts of the drive train when there is a little slip. The tuner said it probably is loosing 20 horse with the converter unlocked.
I've got dual walbro gss340s in tank with dash 10 all the way to the fore precision fuel rails that I had to modify a little to fit the COT then to 80 lbs injectors with an aeromotive regulator. Rutrn is the stock fuel supply. Also, if I would need anymore pump the return line would need to be increased in size. I run a 40 amp relay to 10 gauge wire to the pumps. The fuel gets pretty hot in the summer with all the returned fuel, but the pumps are holding up well.
I would like to see what you did for the fuel rails. Did you run them in series or parallel? I'm gonna run ours in series and cross over at the front but don't want to go over the blower.
The driver side looks like if I use push lock hose in -8 i can get it under the blower with a 90* fitting but the pass side is tight to the trilogy COT. I am going to modify a stock COT so I can prolly make space that way.
~Chris
I don't have a picture, but I will try to get one. I'll have to send it to your e-mail because I dont have an account anywhere. I the lines in series, started at the drivers rear and exited the passenger rear. The fronts of the fuel rails are plugged because -10 was to big for the COT. -8 may work, I drilled and tapped the railes for -10 on top like a chevy ls motor where the crossover is in the middle of the rail.
Here's a few more pics of what I did.
First I drew a line on the tank so I could cut a slit to run the metal down so I wouldn't have to try and cut it out to match the contour. And also use the bottom of the tank as a baffle.
Drilled the stock bucket spot welds to remove bucket out the hat hole.
Then drilled holes in the bottom of the tank in strategic locations for the fuel to flow in.
Then welded the sides and top on. Then added the fittings. I put a -8 as a return in the opposite side of the sump as the outlet. Also put a 3/8 NPT bung in that I will hook a shutoff valve to so we can drain the tank of race fuel or street fuel to add the opposite.
And we cleaned it out and put the POR15 in today. I'll get pics of that tomorrow.
~Chris
And would like to run it on E85 too. Do you know how much HP you make on the E85
No, but I know you should really be able to crank up the boost. Now if Sherm can keep cutting those 0.0 lights you guys are going to be tough.
~But, it makes it a lot easier when he is manscaped.~ Haggis
~Cool, I can have one of those strangulation orgasms without the strangle.
WIN WIN!~ Zack
~Who needs to stop? I just wanna gooooooooooo ~ -Matt-
What are the steps to do E85 on our cars? It's either that or a Snow kit. My local race gas station closed up.
PROCHARGER SUPERCHARGER FROM F.I.T. # 007
18psi pulley
MMR built Stroker 5.0+.020 overbore
Forged Crank/Manley Rods/Manley Pistons
Billet Oil Pump
ARP Bolts and head studs
Snow Methanol Injection
3500 Stall Converter (PI)
Stryker 340 Fuel Pump
45 lbs Injectors
4:10 gears
K&N Air Filter
Factory Spoiler
Widened Wheels
Nittos
170 deg thermostat
SS Inserts
Daniel's Colex Billet Supercharged Emblems front and rear
Trunk organizer
With your car you would need more pump most likely, bigger fuel line and 60# injectors at least and a tune. It all really depends on how much power you want to make. This is a good place for info http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/distillery-374/
Another good site for info http://www.e85mustangs.com/index.html
Snow would be easy for you.
Also the sump holds a good gallon and half. And 2 is just over the baffle holes. Aeromotive said the pump needed 3 gallons on tap.
Last edited by Blown3.8; 03-10-2012 at 08:19 PM.
~Chris
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