I installed front Moog springs and cars sits too high

[Aerocoupe]

You basically clamp the UCA and LCA in that position when you torque them. Think about it, to remove the factory coil over assembly it is much easier to loosen the LCA bolts so that it will drop more. These are not bearings. You absolutely torque the bolts on the control arms when the suspension is loaded.

And yes cutting the springs does increase the spring rate:
https://www.eatondetroitspring.com/c...-coil-springs/

And if you want the math behind it here you go:
https://www.eatondetroitspring.com/c...-calculations/

Also, when you cut a spring you need to understand that the factory dampers were designed with a specific spring rate. Now that you have cut the spring you may very well have screwed up the damper/spring combo. If you are going to tinker with spring rates you need to understand how this will affect the damper or have the $$$ to get adjustable dampers. Even then you can get crazy and get custom valved dampers so you can mess with different spring rates but that is usually on race cars. Think Penske here:
https://www.penskeshocks.com/

[justbob]

Someone else is doing the work, He should know that but I'll tell him to do that first before changing the springs, but do you really think that's going to lower the front 3"... I'm thinking.. nope.

Depends on just how tight he tightened the bolts.. and yes it could lower it an easy 1 1/2”. Keep in mind you had new uncut springs installed so matter what it is going to sit tall.

Smashing the bushings down on unsprung suspension and expecting them to simply maneuver back into static ride height isn’t going to happen. It will also chew up the bushings if left and create a stiff ride.


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[tutbo2256b]

LOwering or raising the suspension often requires different length shocks as well as stiffer shock valving. so its best to measure between the shock mounting points with the vehicle sitting on the ground.
tightening the control arms without the vehicle on the ground issue is the factory style bushings metal sleeve has teeth on the ends that engage when the bolt is tightened. Because of this the rubber acts like a torsion spring. it adds enough to the spring rate that installing poly bushings (have no teeth) with stock springs one could find they might want heavier rate springs

[Turbov6Bryan]

When I did the car above, cut one coil, put back together and slid a jack under the lower control arm and jacked it up enough to lift that side off the jack stand a CH
Then tightened up the upper control arm bolts.

It took a week to settle completely

Just put 2000 miles on it going to Woodward..

[Turbov6Bryan]

What is the ride height at now?

The black car with 235 55 18s up front sits at 27.5 and my thumb sideways barely fits between the tire and fender lip

I have a 72k silver birch with a vortech and stock suspension with stock size firestone tires and it sits at 28 inches.

Hope that helps

[blazen71]

The black car with 235 55 18s up front sits at 27.5 and my thumb sideways barely fits between the tire and fender lip

I have a 72k silver birch with a vortech and stock suspension with stock size firestone tires and it sits at 28 inches.

Hope that helps

Yes it helps, thanks! I'm not sure if you said, what springs did you use?

[nopropslaw]

It rides great, it feels stock just lowered 1 coil.

The tire does not rub... I posted this earlier and my post disappeared

Did you use regular moogs or the p71 moogs?

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[1Marauder]

You basically clamp the UCA and LCA in that position when you torque them. Think about it, to remove the factory coil over assembly it is much easier to loosen the LCA bolts so that it will drop more. These are not bearings. You absolutely torque the bolts on the control arms when the suspension is loaded.

And yes cutting the springs does increase the spring rate:
https://www.eatondetroitspring.com/c...-coil-springs/

And if you want the math behind it here you go:
https://www.eatondetroitspring.com/c...-calculations/

Also, when you cut a spring you need to understand that the factory dampers were designed with a specific spring rate. Now that you have cut the spring you may very well have screwed up the damper/spring combo. If you are going to tinker with spring rates you need to understand how this will affect the damper or have the $$$ to get adjustable dampers. Even then you can get crazy and get custom valved dampers so you can mess with different spring rates but that is usually on race cars. Think Penske here:
https://www.penskeshocks.com/

What ends do our springs have?

[Aerocoupe]

The fronts are a tangential end on the bottom and more of a pigtail end on the top. This makes it where you would only remove coils off the bottom of the spring.

I have disassembled the front strut assemblies on my CV IFS to install adjustable coil overs so I am looking at the springs.

[blazen71]

The fronts are a tangential end on the bottom and more of a pigtail end on the top. This makes it where you would only remove coils off the bottom of the spring.

I have disassembled the front strut assemblies on my CV IFS to install adjustable coil overs so I am looking at the springs.

You got it backwards. Bottom is pig tailed. Remove coils from the top.

[Aerocoupe]

I stand corrected. I have parts out to powder coat and got the spring top and bottom backwards. Appreciate the correction and apologies for the misinformation.

[Spectragod]

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Uhhhhhhhh, wtf???

[NATEHAWK]

Uhhhhhhhh, wtf???

???? QA1's don't come with the proper spacers you have to either fab up some or use stainless steel nuts. Many guys have done this.


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[1Marauder]

You got it backwards. Bottom is pig tailed. Remove coils from the top.

Recutting 3/4 coil on Wednesday. Looking for 1 inch drop.

[Turbov6Bryan]

Recutting 3/4 coil on Wednesday. Looking for 1 inch drop.

Oem springs?
Do a full coil