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Thread: Boost a pump setting?

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    MtClemens, MI
    Age
    57
    Posts
    463
    Quote Originally Posted by FordNut
    My guess would be that you're going lean up top and should turn up the BAP just a little bit. If you're using the boost switch that comes with the kit as per the instructions, you can't turn it up too much because it causes a presure spike when the boost comes on which is hard for the PCM to compensate for. Lots of Mustang BAP users short out the boost switch inputs so it stays on all the time. Notice the BAP instructions even mention the option of doing this. That gives a higher voltage to the fuel pumps all the time and allows the PCM to control the fuel pressure as it normally would.




    Your right about some people wring in the BAP so that it runs full time. It’s the only way we do it now as well.
    This is a procedure that I didn’t want to talk about because we switched to this about 10 months ago on all BAP installs. The reason I didn’t want to talk about it is I don’t want people who already have BAPs installed to think that there is a better way out there and then watch every one run out to their cars and try to make a change or start calling me and start with the “why this” and “Why didn’t you tell us that” thing. The way that the Trilogy manual does it is fine and will stay that way for ever, because it works and has no problems at all. Even when you start to crank up the blower boost and crank up the BAP knob, for the most part when the BAP kicks in, it’s pretty seamless.

    Truthfully the very key reason we started to wire in the BAP to run full time and in such a fashion is what I call the “BEFORE” method. First the reason for this is we no longer run the trigger wiring from the trunk to engine bay because we simply short the BAP “turn-on” wires to let the BAP go into amplifying mode full time. This saved us install time. Second when the BAP is wired to run full time and is plumbed in before the “fuel pump controller module”…. The computer/module thinks is simply working with a higher incoming voltage to begin with and still goes on to control the fuel pump very normally. As long as the pump isn’t to weak and/or not up to the task your demanding it to do, this method works very good, but no different in terms of performance then the way the Trilogy manual wants it done.

    There are some people out there who argue that installing the BAP in the “before” method can cause a voltage drop to the pump controller and the pump its self, because the BAP is an electrical device and its components will absorb some juice. This may be totally true. But for us this has not proven to be a problem on some 35+ cars and truck in the last few months. What we found is that when using the popular focus pump and the BAP wired in the “before” method on all supercharged Ford’s, this way proven so far to have no long term problems and perfect compatibility with the computer and all of its pump controlling features. In fact if you run unleaded fuels, the focus pump, BAP and 60lbs injectors will support about 500 RWHP with ease… and if you run Leaded fuel this combo will support up to about 550 RWHP.

    I’m not totally sure why but when switching to pure leaded race fuels like the popular 110 leaded Turbo-Blue in our area, your existing EFI fuel system will support about 10-15% more RWHP. I’ve seen this a ton in the last few years. Some thing about the properties of the leaded fuel, either makes the engine need less of it (fuel) in the combustion chamber or the fuel its self simply makes the injectors flow better and pumps work better? Not sure but I have to lean out all the cars that run the leaded 100 stuff every time.

    I now have two local 03 Cobra’s that run on pure leaded 110 octane fuel that are seeing 650 RWHP with the stock twin pumps in the tank, a BAP and 60lbs injectors and absolutely nothing else done to the fuel system.. No larger lines from the tank forward, no larger wire from the Battery box leading back to the pump controller, plus stock fuel rails, none of that stuff that most people will argue we should have done by now.
    Because I’m quick to force people to run leaded race fuels in applications like this, regardless of what you read or hear can and should have been done with 93 pump unleaded fuels. These cars along with several others near this RWHP level run very good, and because of how I watch true A/F readings, these seem to show no signs of the trouble that a lot of other tuners run into with these cars at this level of RWHP.
    If you know any one who’s hurt the dam near bullet proof bottom end of an 03-04 Cobra when starting to make over 500 RWHP with one of these… Asside from runing it with no oil, the owner and/or the tuner have made a serious mistake with tuning and octane, Period!!!


    I may not be at the top (yet) but definitely on top of things.

    Lidio Iacobelli
    Alternativeauto.com

    (586)-949-7505

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Dearborn, Michigan
    Age
    72
    Posts
    810

    Response from Jerry Barnes

    Lid,

    Thanks for taking the time to post the response to this question. As usual, great job!

    Jerry


  3. #33
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Rockford
    Age
    64
    Posts
    10,227
    Ditto, What the Guy with the World record said^^^
    Great read
    Quote Originally Posted by Jerry Barnes
    Lid,

    Thanks for taking the time to post the response to this question. As usual, great job!

    Jerry
    2004 Trilogy #93P 12.2@113 Built and stalled

  4. #34
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Venice, Florida
    Age
    56
    Posts
    2,401
    My car has it wired in like the manual instructs. I cannot "feel" the boost-a-pump kick in, even after reading this thread and paying attention to try and "catch" it.

    I doubt I'll re-wire mine, as Lidio said, it's fine the way it is.
    2003 Marauder 300A
    Trilogy Supercharger Serial #0054
    Installed by Carfixer 10/16/2004

    Tallboy's Garage

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Connecticut
    Age
    62
    Posts
    6,837
    Quote Originally Posted by Tallboy
    My car has it wired in like the manual instructs. I cannot "feel" the boost-a-pump kick in, even after reading this thread and paying attention to try and "catch" it.

    I doubt I'll re-wire mine, as Lidio said, it's fine the way it is.
    Ditto....mine too.

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