First Eaton Swap casualty

[sflrainmaker01]

Well, after a long a$$ eaton swap (thanks Marty for cleaning up the mess), I believe I have my first casualty....the transmission. After 2000 amazing miles, the trans won't shift into drive, first or second. I tried to run the Marauder up to church this morning. It backed out of the driveway no problem. Then, into D........ Nothing. Not even if I revved up the motor. After a couple minutes, though, it kinda eased on into gear. Luckily, I don't live on a busy street. So, I parked it in the grass and took the Shelby.
Would this be the pump or is the trans shot? The fluid looked red, not burnt smelling but there was a little gray residue mixed in with the red fluid when I checked it the other night when I got home from work. The other night, the car would eventually go into gear and you could still light up the tires, no slippage or nothing. It just took a little coercing (a little RPM) and she would ease into gear. Not a solid shift into D like it used to.

Could it be just the pump? Either way with exactly 100k miles, I would guess the trans would need a freshen up at least.
What should I upgrade in the current trans? Can most transmission shops correctly upgrade the 4r75W?
Would a good used trans suffice?
Are the high dollar aftermarket transmissions worth the money? If so, which company is best?
What about the 6R80 swap I was reading about?
Thanks!

[musclemerc]

The stock units don't like power! I blew mine within the first year.

I went with a built 75E from 88grandmarquise. So far she has handled the power from my TVS

[MyBlackBeasts]

Well, after a long a$$ eaton swap (thanks Marty for cleaning up the mess), I believe I have my first casualty....the transmission. After 2000 amazing miles, the trans won't shift into drive, first or second. I tried to run the Marauder up to church this morning. It backed out of the driveway no problem. Then, into D........ Nothing. Not even if I revved up the motor. After a couple minutes, though, it kinda eased on into gear. Luckily, I don't live on a busy street. So, I parked it in the grass and took the Shelby.
Would this be the pump or is the trans shot? The fluid looked red, not burnt smelling but there was a little gray residue mixed in with the red fluid when I checked it the other night when I got home from work. The other night, the car would eventually go into gear and you could still light up the tires, no slippage or nothing. It just took a little coercing (a little RPM) and she would ease into gear. Not a solid shift into D like it used to.

Could it be just the pump? Either way with exactly 100k miles, I would guess the trans would need a freshen up at least.
What should I upgrade in the current trans? Can most transmission shops correctly upgrade the 4r75W?
Would a good used trans suffice?
Are the high dollar aftermarket transmissions worth the money? If so, which company is best?
What about the 6R80 swap I was reading about?
Thanks!

Mine did that too, if I played with it long enough it would finally go in to gear and was fine after that. Then after parking, repeat.
The trans has a design flaw where one of the servo actuator piston shafts wears the aluminum case and it loses fluid pressure causing the issue.
The Sonnax kit fixes all known issues including this by using a slightly smaller diameter shaft with orings to make the seal.
My trans was mint internally other than this but as it was out of the car I rebuilt and upgraded everything I could.
Been working great for 2 years now.

[MyBlackBeasts]

Trans rebuild kit with Forced Tail Shaft Lube Mod:
Sonex ZipKit - http://www.transmissionbench.com/
Hardened high capacity Forward drum – Summit Racing https://www.sonnax.com/parts/4373-sm...lutch-drum-kit
Hardened Direct drum – Kenny Brown transmissions (thanks Tbone!)
Hardened 300M input shaft – BCA Transmissions https://www.bcawebstore.com/index.ph...ct_detail&p=14
Hardened 300M stub shaft – eBay
Crossmember – Elkhorn Motors Ford (Thanks Nicco!)
Trans mount – Tasca Ford

[Comin' in Hot]

If it stopped working out of nowhere I would check the shifter cable and the selector on the side of the trans, if it comes out of adjustment even a little bit the trans won’t go into gear or sometimes even park correctly.

[tbone]

My trans has held together for 3 years now with no issues. The Freddie Brown hardened direct drum made all the difference.

[justbob]

Mine did that too, if I played with it long enough it would finally go in to gear and was fine after that. Then after parking, repeat.
The trans has a design flaw where one of the servo actuator piston shafts wears the aluminum case and it loses fluid pressure causing the issue.
The Sonnax kit fixes all known issues including this by using a slightly smaller diameter shaft with orings to make the seal.
My trans was mint internally other than this but as it was out of the car I rebuilt and upgraded everything I could.
Been working great for 2 years now.

I would start by replacing servos like mentioned, give the valve body a super good thorough cleaning, and a new gasket.


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[sflrainmaker01]

Thanks for all the replies. I hope it is as easy as a servo. I wasn't expecting the trans to fail this soon. Once its in gear, it functions like it should. Stay tuned. I'll post up when I get the servo etc serviced.

[sflrainmaker01]

I'm working on rounding up the parts. But, what stall are ya'll running in your eaton swapped or Trilogy cars with 4.10 gears?

[RubberCtyRauder]

2600 stall..don't need high stall on a roots imo.

[musclemerc]

I ran a Trilogy 13psi, 3k stall, and 4:10s.
Was a lot of fun

[MyBlackBeasts]

Factory converter. Mine is a daily driver so wanted it to drive normally. The Trilogy gives me all the smiles needed

[sflrainmaker01]

Thanks. I kinda figured there wouldn't need to be alot of stall added to a roots setup, lol. Whatever stall is in the car now works for me. But, in case it needs to be replaced, I know what to look for.
Monday, I am getting it towed to the trans shop. He will look it over to see what it needs. I'll keep ya'll posted.