Wideband and the LC-1

[Brutus]

After looking at the LC-1 and reading some on the innovative forums I have a question. Can you put the wideband sensor in one of the existing bungs and then connect one of the analog outputs to the existing O2 sensor wiring that goes back to the computer? Any thoughts? Doesnt the factory narrow band have a range of 0 to 1 volts. I cant remember.

[Mike M]

I was hoping the same thing. The existing sensor should work between 0-1 volt. But I guess it can't be that easy. You would think if the car goes into open loop and full acceleration its not using the stock O2 sensors anyway. I am getting close to buying a kit. They seem to be about $345.00, have you found a better deal?

[HwyCruiser]

I was reading TMF's SCT Proracer tuning booklet and it said the OEM o2 sensors are really narrow band and not suitable for measuring anything much outside of stoich 14.7 a/f ratio.

It suggested a wide-band o2 threaded in a bung before the cats for tuning and monitoring purposes. I had a bung welded on the driver's side pipe last year for dyno testing. The kits should come with a bung that any muffler shop should be able to install pretty quick.

I personally like the looks and features of the Dynojet Wideband Commander. Our friend in Springfield had a pretty good deal on those. It's been on my list for awhile, if other things would just stop bumping it down.

[Brutus]

Jd,
Here are a few of the threads I spoke of. To me it looks like it is possible.

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/f...***.php?t=3373

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/f...***.php?t=3409

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/f...***.php?t=3065

[HwyCruiser]

Brutus, you'd have to find out what the expected range for the ECU is for the NBo2 is, but I doubt if the LM-1 0-1V output is centered around stoich 14.7 a/f. Maybe it can be reprogrammed, I don't know.

If space is the major concern, you might be able to use on of the rear o2 sensor bungs (assuming they are the correct size), I believe these are turned off in the tuning but you may need a CEL eliminator for the ECU wires. About as good as the tailpipe sniffers that some dynos use. But any kit should come with a bung and a plug, and it shouldn't be very expensive to have the pipe drilled and the bung welded on.

[RF Overlord]

you might be able to use on of the rear o2 sensor bungs (assuming they are the correct size)

A wideband sensor must be installed before the cats...

[Brutus]

From the LC-1 user manual (innovatives website)

8.1 Connecting the LC-1 to simulate a narrow band oxygen sensor.
<FONT face=Arial><FONT size=3>[FONT=/><o:p></o:p></p>
<FONT face=ArialMT><FONT face=]It is possible to install the wide-band sensor in place of the OEM oxygen sensor. In this case the<?xml:namespace prefix = o /><o:p></o:p>
meter's analog output signal will replace the OEM oxygen sensor's signal to the fuel injection<o:p></o:p>
computer. EFI equipped cars typically incorporate a narrow band oxygen sensor. These sensors<o:p></o:p>
are typically 1, 2, 3 or 4 wire sensors.<o:p></o:p>
The analog output connector of the LC-1 can simulate the operation of a narrow band sensor<o:p></o:p>
while the wide-band oxygen sensor is installed in place of the OEM narrow-band sensor. Factory<o:p></o:p>
equipped Analog output 1 of the LC-1 is programmed to simulate a narrow band sensor. Some<o:p></o:p>
vehicles are equipped with oxygen sensors that do not produce an output voltage but change<o:p></o:p>
their resistance depending on exhaust gas content. These sensors cannot be simulated. They<o:p></o:p>
are used in less than 1% of all vehicles. Refer to your vehicles specifications if you think that<o:p></o:p>
your vehicle may be in this category. The same is true for vehicles already factory equipped with<o:p></o:p>
a wide-band oxygen sensor. These cannot be simulated either.<o:p></o:p>
Some EFI-computers will create a fault when the heater power wires of the oxygen sensor are<o:p></o:p>
disconnected. In this case mount the old oxygen sensor in a safe place (but not necessarily in the<o:p></o:p>
exhaust) and connect the heater wires to it to keep the EFI-computer happy.<o:p></o:p>
Be careful where you mount the stock sensor, as heated sensors will get<o:p></o:p>
hot.<o:p></o:p>
To connect the LC-1 to the EFI-computer, first determine what kind of narrow band sensor is<o:p></o:p>
used, then follow the instructions below (you will need a digital multimeter to determine correct<o:p></o:p>
OEM sensor wires):<o:p></o:p>
It also appears that the LC-1 can be used with other Air/Fuel Gauges



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