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Thread: Question about timing cover removal

  1. #1
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    Question about timing cover removal

    I'm in the middle of removing my timing cover for chain guides and tensioners. Cam covers are off, all accessories and bolts removed from cover, but for the life of me, I can't figure out how to shimmy the cover out. The tabs at the bottom won't let me slide it forward without lifting up, and when I try to lift up, the water pump is in the way and won't allow me to lift up. Additionally, I can only tilt it so far out before it hits the COT. I did not remove COT or water pump because I had heard of others being able to do this job without touching the cooling system or draining anything. I swear I'm not imagining that; so I'm either a dunce or there's b.s. floating around. Can anyone attest to that? If you succeeded, how'd you do it? Thanks in advance. Pics below COT clearance, water pump, and oil pan tab clearance issues.

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    2003 Black 300A
    Adopted: 4/26/14

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  2. #2
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    If something is in the way while attempting to complete a task, remove the obstacle and complete the task.

    Say this 5 times and try again

  3. #3
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    Question about timing cover removal

    Did You remove the bolts from the oil pan?


    I don't think You can get the top bolt out without removing the COT.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by musclemerc View Post
    If something is in the way while attempting to complete a task, remove the obstacle and complete the task.

    Say this 5 times and try again
    I hear ya! That's definitely an option, but I simply don't WANT to do that if I can avoid it. The reason I asked about this is that I have read of some who claimed they didn't remove anything cooling system related. I was looking for answers as to how it might be possible.

    If all else fails, removal is in order. Unfortunately, that would mean draining the cooling system...

    Quote Originally Posted by 03Merc View Post
    Did You remove the bolts from the oil pan?


    I don't think you can get the top bolt out without removing the COT.

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    I removed the front four pan bolts that are directly underneath the timing cover. That's all that's required right? Or did I miss something? Maybe it's possible to remove a couple more towards the front of the pan in order to be able push it down the 2-3 mm of clearance needed to pull the bottom of the cover free?

    And yes, I believe you're right about the top bolt being blocked by COT (terrible engineering). But the way I looked at, I would be able to maneuver it out without removing anything. That's before I discovered the oil pan tabs and water pump would block such a maneuver.
    2003 Black 300A
    Adopted: 4/26/14

    Mods:
    Mo's Tune - K&N CAI - 4.10 FOMOCO gears - Reische 170* T-stat - NGK TR6 Plugs - Flowmaster 40s - MuscleMerc's 3" Fuel Filter Mod - Addco Front and Rear Sway Bars - TCE SS Brake Lines - Cooper RS3-G1 - Factory Spoiler - SS Bumper Inserts

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    Did you remove the fan assembly?
    2003 Mercury Grandma on steroids

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoldPanther View Post
    Did you remove the fan assembly?
    Yes, I did.
    2003 Black 300A
    Adopted: 4/26/14

    Mods:
    Mo's Tune - K&N CAI - 4.10 FOMOCO gears - Reische 170* T-stat - NGK TR6 Plugs - Flowmaster 40s - MuscleMerc's 3" Fuel Filter Mod - Addco Front and Rear Sway Bars - TCE SS Brake Lines - Cooper RS3-G1 - Factory Spoiler - SS Bumper Inserts

  7. #7
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    Did you remove the two power steering pump bolts and ground cable?

    If so, then you’re just stuck on the dabs of silicone. It should pull straight off.


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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by justbob View Post
    Did you remove the two power steering pump bolts and ground cable?

    If so, then you’re just stuck on the dabs of silicone. It should pull straight off.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    PS pump and ground cables are free. Where are the silicone dabs to which you're referring?

    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
    2003 Black 300A
    Adopted: 4/26/14

    Mods:
    Mo's Tune - K&N CAI - 4.10 FOMOCO gears - Reische 170* T-stat - NGK TR6 Plugs - Flowmaster 40s - MuscleMerc's 3" Fuel Filter Mod - Addco Front and Rear Sway Bars - TCE SS Brake Lines - Cooper RS3-G1 - Factory Spoiler - SS Bumper Inserts

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    Quote Originally Posted by offroadkarter View Post
    Reinhart's tuning skills were comparable to an ape slapping the keyboard in microsoft excel.

  10. #10
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    I replaced tensioners last year and did not drain the coolant.

  11. #11
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    I remember getting timing cover loose , shifting it to the drivers side then tilting it and lifting it out

  12. #12
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    Achieved success this morning without having to remove or drain anything. There are two small tabs on the front of the oil pan gasket that prevent the cover from sliding forward. I simply had to apply some downward pressure on these tabs while pulling on the cover with a little bit of muscle and it finally slipped right over the tabs.

    On to my next question. Here's a picture of my passenger side timing chain. The timing marks on the cam and crank sprockets are in between links on the timing chain. I've always seen instructions that say to line up the timing marks on the crank/cam gears with opposing end links on the chain. My chain seems odd in that the timing dots are in between links. This is ONLY on my passenger side. My driver side timing marks are lined up directly on opposing links. Is this a problem, or just a result of the revolution sequence that my engine is currently on? I've included pics for reference.



    I will adjust the chain if necessary. It seems ridiculously easy to time this engine, but I may be oversimplifying it. First, timing mark on crank gear should be rotated until it's at 6 o' clock. Then, with a sharpie or equivalent, simply mark the links that align with the timing marks on the sprockets. When reassembling, simply line up the marked chain links with the timing marks on sprockets, making sure that the crank sprocket timing mark is still at 6 o' clock. Am I right in saying this gives the liberty to slightly move the cam sprocket during reassembly because you have everything marked up prior to disassembly?

    Where's Zack? I need some blunt affirmation!
    Last edited by HotRaud90; 08-01-2018 at 09:58 AM.
    2003 Black 300A
    Adopted: 4/26/14

    Mods:
    Mo's Tune - K&N CAI - 4.10 FOMOCO gears - Reische 170* T-stat - NGK TR6 Plugs - Flowmaster 40s - MuscleMerc's 3" Fuel Filter Mod - Addco Front and Rear Sway Bars - TCE SS Brake Lines - Cooper RS3-G1 - Factory Spoiler - SS Bumper Inserts

  13. #13
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    Well, I did it without any confirmation. Took off both chains, marked opposing end links, and lined up the timing marks on both chains and the crank and cam sprockets. Installed guides, tensioner arms, and tensioners. Passenger side cam sprocket moved a bit a couple of times, but it wasn't a problem since the crank shaft remained stationary. Simply rotated cam sprocket back in place and lined up the timing marks to the marked chain links.

    Next step...how the hell do you remove the old crankshaft seal? It's a must now. Attempted to pull it out with a pick tool and it slipped and ripped right through the rubber. So what a the simplest way to do this? Any tips or tricks that don't require specialty tools? Thanks in advance.

    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
    2003 Black 300A
    Adopted: 4/26/14

    Mods:
    Mo's Tune - K&N CAI - 4.10 FOMOCO gears - Reische 170* T-stat - NGK TR6 Plugs - Flowmaster 40s - MuscleMerc's 3" Fuel Filter Mod - Addco Front and Rear Sway Bars - TCE SS Brake Lines - Cooper RS3-G1 - Factory Spoiler - SS Bumper Inserts

  14. #14
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    use a big socket to knock it out.

    you can also cut a piece of 2x4 with a hole saw and use the circle to knock it out and reinstall the seal.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by HotRaud90 View Post
    Achieved success this morning without having to remove or drain anything. There are two small tabs on the front of the oil pan gasket that prevent the cover from sliding forward. I simply had to apply some downward pressure on these tabs while pulling on the cover with a little bit of muscle and it finally slipped right over the tabs.

    On to my next question. Here's a picture of my passenger side timing chain. The timing marks on the cam and crank sprockets are in between links on the timing chain. I've always seen instructions that say to line up the timing marks on the crank/cam gears with opposing end links on the chain. My chain seems odd in that the timing dots are in between links. This is ONLY on my passenger side. My driver side timing marks are lined up directly on opposing links. Is this a problem, or just a result of the revolution sequence that my engine is currently on? I've included pics for reference.



    I will adjust the chain if necessary. It seems ridiculously easy to time this engine, but I may be oversimplifying it. First, timing mark on crank gear should be rotated until it's at 6 o' clock. Then, with a sharpie or equivalent, simply mark the links that align with the timing marks on the sprockets. When reassembling, simply line up the marked chain links with the timing marks on sprockets, making sure that the crank sprocket timing mark is still at 6 o' clock. Am I right in saying this gives the liberty to slightly move the cam sprocket during reassembly because you have everything marked up prior to disassembly?

    Where's Zack? I need some blunt affirmation!
    6:00 @TDC (compression stroke) on the crank
    IIRC the PS needs to be @12:00 DS needs to be @11:00

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