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Thread: Sway Bar + Control Arms + Watts Link + Tires + Alignment = WOW

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Sway Bar + Control Arms + Watts Link + Tires + Alignment = WOW

    So I got new tires this week along with a balance and alignment. Just a couple of weeks ago I had control arms and watts link installed. Last year, a rear anti-sway bar.

    I took a couple of corners today faster and with less "mechanical protest" than ever before. How does something this size do that?

    Once I have the front end taken care of, I am pretty sure I won't have to brake for corners.
    Dave

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
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    San Diego
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    Concur!

    Concur, I have upgraded sway bars, control arms, watts link, performance tires, all wheel alignment, and the widened rear wheels don't hurt either. -kjs-

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    Weatogue, CT
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    Dido on the upgrades

    Quote Originally Posted by NAVCHAP
    Concur, I have upgraded sway bars, control arms, watts link, performance tires, all wheel alignment, and the widened rear wheels don't hurt either. -kjs-
    Since doing these upgrades, the MM 300A handles great. But after installing the frount sway bar I did start feeling a little steering wheel jitters around 38 mph. It goes away around corners and at higher sppeds - good thing for that. So I'm planning on doing new tires and wheel alignments in the spring.

    Anyway it's time to put on the snow tires, it snowed today about 2".
    George G
    As much as we love technology, we must be prepared for the inevitable, it fails.

  4. #4
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    You should consider next upgrading the axles. They're like overcooked pieces of asparagus. They flex alot through corners.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Warpath
    You should consider next upgrading the axles. They're like overcooked pieces of asparagus. They flex alot through corners.
    Upgrade with what? A 31 spline axle or something custom? I can always use another way to spend more money on my baby.
    2001 Grand Marquis w/HPP
    BC4E Dead Pedal - Ford Billet Fuel Door - Mufflex custom 2.5" Manifold-back exhaust w/X-Pipe - Meg's 4" Marauder Tips - Metco Rear Control Arms & Watts Link - Reinhart Fuel Filter Mod - Quickor Swaybars - PST Carbon Fiber Driveshaft - Dyno Pro Panther Door Sills - BF Goodrich KDW-2 245/40/19 Fronts & 285/35/19 Rears - H&R Spacers 30mm & 35MM - HP Design EVO 19x8.5 & 19x9.5 Wheels - Zexel Torsen T2-R Differential - Ford 3.73 Gears - DG Motorsports Radiator Cover - PSP tuned Excal 2 - Ford Silicone Coolant Hoses - QA1 Dual Adjustable Shocks - Car Motorsports Panther Logo UH & TL Liners - TA Performance Differential Cover - Magnaflow Cats & Mufflers - Accufab 75mm Plenum & Throttle Body - 1" Throttle Body & 1/2" Intake Spacers - AP Racing 6 Piston/13.5" Rotors Front Brake Kit - 4" CAI - Typhoon Intake Manifold - EMP Stewart Water Pump
    SuperMotors Page
    CJMF
    MotorSports North East
    15.195 @ 89.79 - 2.207 60' - 4458 lbs.

  6. #6
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by BK_GrandMarquis
    Upgrade with what? A 31 spline axle or something custom? I can always use another way to spend more money on my baby.
    Go ahead and have a custom 9" fabricated!
    Thanks to Darrin @ BC Automotive:
    $1800 and it was worse than when he started!

    Brian (FordNut) FPG # 1458 of 7838
    03 MM 300A (Lotsa mods, 130k mi) was 303rwhp/318rwtq N/A
    then 476/410 D1SC ProCharged on stock block
    then 660/555 D1SC PC on 5.3 wet sleeved Teksid alum big bore stroker
    then 365/369 N/A on 5.3 wet sleeved Teksid alum big bore stroker
    Now 751/617 3.4L Whipple on 5.3 Boss5.0 iron big bore stroker

    03 MM 300B Silver (Mostly stock, originally wife's car, 370k mi) FPG # 7053 of 7838 or 49 of 417 SB
    03 MM 300B Silver, Stock, wife's next one, 136k mi FPG # 7134 of 7838 or 89 of 417 SB
    04 MM Silver, Stock, on standby 85k mi, FPG # 1212 of 3214 or 432 of 997 SB
    01 F150 longbed
    01 F150 shortbed
    00 F150 4x4 stepside
    01 F150 4x4 7700
    68 Stang FB (70 351C 4V, 4 wheel discs, project car)

    Mods listed here (some items not current): FordNut's Mods

  7. #7
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Warpath
    You should consider next upgrading the axles. They're like overcooked pieces of asparagus. They flex alot through corners.
    That's what I did on Hell Boy!!

  8. #8
    Forget the axles...you need THESE!!!! Just ask anyone who's driven my car in the last couple of days....WOW!!!


  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
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    Hiram, Georgia
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    ^^^^ Yep, Todd has the best dialed in MM that I have ever driven!!!

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
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    Baltimore, Md.
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    Did you upgrade the axles...or the whole rear end assembly??
    I've talked to DTS (Drive Train Specialists) and Mark Williams Enterprises and both will take your MM 8.8" Rear end and perform the following:
    -weld axle tubes to the center section
    -install 31 spline axles
    -install your choice of gear ratio
    -install Eaton Posi
    -install steel 'main cap' on carrier (left side only as this is the side driven back on hard acceleration)
    -install ARP main cap studs
    -cut off OEM axle tube ends and weld on 9" ends with larger bearings (same bolt pattern as 8.8" axle ends and the 9" ends have a press fit bearing so the 'C-clips' are not needed)
    -install 1350 billet pinion yoke (Mark Wiliams Enterprises)

    I figure I'll drop the rear axle and do this mod all at once in conjunction with a S/C & Nittos
    2020 Ford Ranger STX DFI Turbo 2.3L 10 speed Auto
    2017 Ford Fusion Sport DFI Twin Turbo 2.7L V6 6 speed Auto (14.000 ET bone stock in 82 degree heat)
    1985 Mustang GT 5.0 Hatchback 4bbl 5 speed manual (525 HP 363 Dart block/AFR heads with Magnum 6 speed in the works)
    1984 Mustang GT 2.3 Turbo Convertible FI. 5 speed manual
    1966 427 Cobra (ERA) 468 all Aluminum FE 2x4bbl 5 speed manual

    SOLD : 2003 Mercury Marauder FI. 4 speed Auto
    w/Crower Cams & Springs, +1mm SS valves, mild port job on the cylinder heads.
    Extrude honed intake w/PHP spacer.
    Kooks Headers w/2.5" High Flow Cats & X-Pipe, Magnaflow mufflers, OEM tailpipes w/Megs Tips
    B&M Trans cooler w/fan, Level 10 Shift Kit, Art Carr Hughes Deep Sump Trans Pan,
    SVO Rearend Girdle, Redline Gear lube; OEM 3.55s
    'Real Gauges' + matching Trans Temp, Oil Temp, Water Temp, Fuel Pressure, Vacuum/Boost Gauge
    Built: 10/15/02 Bought: 12/16/02 Sold: 10/15/18

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
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    Hiram, Georgia
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    -weld axle tubes to the center section
    Did this

    -install 31 spline axles
    Did this

    -install your choice of gear ratio
    Did this with 4.10's

    -install Eaton Posi
    I went with the Auburn ECTED electric locker. When I am staging and before I burn out I electronically lock the rear and it is like having a spool. So far this has worked well for me and I think it is cool

    -install steel 'main cap' on carrier (left side only as this is the side driven back on hard acceleration)
    Did thison both sides

    -install ARP main cap studs
    Did this

    -cut off OEM axle tube ends and weld on 9" ends with larger bearings (same bolt pattern as 8.8" axle ends and the 9" ends have a press fit bearing so the 'C-clips' are not needed)
    I have read about this, but did not do it. It is a good idea though.

    -install 1350 billet pinion yoke (Mark Wiliams Enterprises)
    Did not do this but it is a good idea for sure. I may go back and do this.
    Last edited by martyo; 11-12-2004 at 08:38 PM.

  12. #12
    Joe...specific answers for Marty's car are in RED

    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Walsh
    Did you upgrade the axles...or the whole rear end assembly??
    I've talked to DTS (Drive Train Specialists) and Mark Williams Enterprises and both will take your MM 8.8" Rear end and perform the following:
    -weld axle tubes to the center section YES
    -install 31 spline axles YES (custom from Moser engineering)
    -install your choice of gear ratio YES
    -install Eaton Posi NOPE (Auburn Gear ECTED electronic locking differential custom built for 31 spline)
    -install steel 'main cap' on carrier (left side only as this is the side driven back on hard acceleration) YES
    -install ARP main cap studs YES
    -cut off OEM axle tube ends and weld on 9" ends with larger bearings (same bolt pattern as 8.8" axle ends and the 9" ends have a press fit bearing so the 'C-clips' are not needed) NOPE, not necessary with our setup
    -install 1350 billet pinion yoke (Mark Wiliams Enterprises) Nope

    I figure I'll drop the rear axle and do this mod all at once in conjunction with a S/C & Nittos

  13. #13
    I guess SICK minds, think alike?

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
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    Hiram, Georgia
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    ^^^^ Is there an echo in here???

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Baltimore, Md.
    Age
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    Posts
    11,665
    Thanks...Looks like you've got a bullet-proof rear end assembly....definitely needed if you are pushing 666 through it!!!!
    (Or is it MORE than 666 now???)
    2020 Ford Ranger STX DFI Turbo 2.3L 10 speed Auto
    2017 Ford Fusion Sport DFI Twin Turbo 2.7L V6 6 speed Auto (14.000 ET bone stock in 82 degree heat)
    1985 Mustang GT 5.0 Hatchback 4bbl 5 speed manual (525 HP 363 Dart block/AFR heads with Magnum 6 speed in the works)
    1984 Mustang GT 2.3 Turbo Convertible FI. 5 speed manual
    1966 427 Cobra (ERA) 468 all Aluminum FE 2x4bbl 5 speed manual

    SOLD : 2003 Mercury Marauder FI. 4 speed Auto
    w/Crower Cams & Springs, +1mm SS valves, mild port job on the cylinder heads.
    Extrude honed intake w/PHP spacer.
    Kooks Headers w/2.5" High Flow Cats & X-Pipe, Magnaflow mufflers, OEM tailpipes w/Megs Tips
    B&M Trans cooler w/fan, Level 10 Shift Kit, Art Carr Hughes Deep Sump Trans Pan,
    SVO Rearend Girdle, Redline Gear lube; OEM 3.55s
    'Real Gauges' + matching Trans Temp, Oil Temp, Water Temp, Fuel Pressure, Vacuum/Boost Gauge
    Built: 10/15/02 Bought: 12/16/02 Sold: 10/15/18

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