Help with instrument cluster

[CrownVic75]

I examined the all the wiring of the instrument cluster and repaired what needed to be fixed. I'm content that it all is correct now. I believe I have one more opportunity to fix something else the "custom" car shop screwed up. I've noticed that the "Volts" meter in the console pod reads 8 to 10 volts with the key "on", even though a multimeter across the battery reads 12.5 volts. Sometime this week I'll need to trace down where the idiot connected the meter's +12v feed to.

I had to buy a new battery today. If I charged the old one to 12.5 volts and tried to start the car once, the battery would then read 8.8 volts. Unless of course it caught, then the alternator voltage would read 13.1 volts and it would recharge the battery.

Now, after several different test, I found out the 4g alternator's voltage regulator is bad. I've ordered and will replace the voltage regulator when it arrives. Hopefully by the end of the week.

So let's see how good my luck has been:
1. I get the car back with a totally hacked up instrument cluster install.
2. The next morning, while I'm driving to the store, the steering pressure switch blows out. (Replaced unit.)
During the next week.
3. A four year old (Sears Diehard) battery goes bad. (Replaced.)
4. The alternator goes bad. (Working on it.)

RF Overlord was right...this has been "the gift that keeps on giving".

I'm just wondering how much of this was caused by mis-wiring the instrument panel.


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[RF Overlord]

I'm just wondering how much of this was caused by mis-wiring the instrument panel.

Looking at my factory wiring manual, it doesn't appear there's any connection between the instrument cluster and the alternator. The PCM controls the rate of charge and the BATT light is just a switch inside the PCM.

[CrownVic75]

Looking at my factory wiring manual, it doesn't appear there's any connection between the instrument cluster and the alternator. The PCM controls the rate of charge and the BATT light is just a switch inside the PCM.

You are correct. I understand the alternator - PCM connection. I see that on page 12-1 in my 2004 Wiring Diagrams.

But, the Fuel gauge didn't work because the idiots wired C2220a pins 2 and 3 to +12v. So I don't know what else they screwed up. I do know that the Voltmeter inside the car reads less (8-11volts) than a multimeter reads at the BJB (12.56v). I will trace the voltmeter's wiring when I get a chance. They might have connected that to the brakes.

I just realized that Ford keeps naming the "Alternator" a "Generator" in my wiring diagrams.

But thanks for reminding me of page 12-1.


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[CrownVic75]

Thanks for the tip - I'll contact CMD ASAP. The Yelp! reviews for the Summerville facility are hilarious! I don't bother posting anything to Yelp! anymore as I've been shadow banned for some unknown reason. My negative reviews were always truthful and objective. Kept getting messages that my 'negative reviews' (few and far between) 'weren't serving the best interests of the community'? Then, I see some of the other stuff posted to Yelp?


https://www.yelp.com/biz/above-and-b...VLhXDbp_h65elg

Yesterday I got 5 phone calls from the owner of "Above & Beyond". He had read the review I had placed on Yelp.com and he apologized and told me he wanted to "make things right". He asked if he could come by and see the mess that I had complained about. He said that the guy that worked on my car had been fired (not because of me but because of other messes he had created).

Anyway, he came by my house at 5:30 yesterday, saw the mess I had complained about and asked if he could have the car back so he could fix the mess. And of course, he ask if I could "find it in my heart" to take the post on yelp down. I've saved, then removed the post and will repost it if he doesn't get the job done properly. He asked that I bring the car back next Monday so he could repair it. He took the plastic dash fascia and trim pieces with him to repair the damage done to them (epoxy, sand, and let set over weekend). This time, I will insist that I see the repairs and verify that everything works before he buttons it up.
More updates to follow...


A little off the subject.
I already posted that when the car is running the inside "Volts" gauge reads less than 13 volts, but the BJB shows 13.6 volts. But, I had the alternator checked three different times and each test said the "voltage regulator" was bad. After some research, it seems that that's the only part of a 4G alternator that a consumer can easily replace. To rebuild the alternator takes some very specialized tools that a consumer most likely won't have.

I'd rather spend the $28 for the regulator than $200+ for a new alternator. Especially since I intend to swap my 130 amp unit for a 160 or 190 amp unit sometime in the future. I have the new regulator now and will replace it this weekend. Again, updates to follow.




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[justbob]

Make sure to replace with like color. There is black, white, and grey IIRC.


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[CrownVic75]

Make sure to replace with like color. There is black, white, and grey IIRC.

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Yes, I did. I have the white one and that's what I replaced it with. It took me about 30 minutes to remove the alternator, replace the voltage regulator, and reinstall the alternator.
However, with the engine running I only measure 13.94 volts across the battery with a multimeter. I thought it should measure 14.5 volts. No engine running is 12.56 volts.




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[justbob]

High 13’s is quite typical. As long as it keeps up with accessories running the battery will get plenty of juice.


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[CrownVic75]

High 13’s is quite typical. As long as it keeps up with accessories running the battery will get plenty of juice.


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It reads the same (~13.9 volts) with headlights and A/C accessories on or off.
Inside the car the voltmeter still reads 13 volt plus or minus a few tenths of a volt. Looks like 13.1 versus previous of less than 13.
I'm thinking I'll run a wire from the voltmeter directly to the BJB. That way I'll have an accurate reading.
I just had a thought, what if the voltmeter itself is bad. Now I'll have to test that out.

I had planned to swap in a 190 amp alternator eventually, but at the moment I'm confused on how to do that. Which alternator, wiring changes, etc,.

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