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Home » Suspension » Swaybars & Arms « Previous Product · Next Product »

Zack & Mac Control Arms Install
Reviews Views Date of last review
1 9872
Recommended By Average Price Average Rating
100% of reviewers None indicated 9.0

Description: This afternoon, I installed the Z&M Control Arms in about 1.75 hours using hand tools, and will share my install experience as it occurred.

The install was very straight forward, and will encourage anyone contemplating doing the install themselves to move forward in doing so.

First off, I cannot detail the removal of the OEM bushings as Zack and I made prior arrangements in sending me a set of bushings as I was relentless in keeping the OEM control arms in tact.

First step:

Preparing the Z&M Control Arms for bushing install.

Using 250 grit sandpaper, I went along the ID of each end of all control arms to remove any burs, etc. that may have been present during manufacturing.

A slight amount of oil on both the bushing and the ID of each control arm prior to the bushing install. (There are 3 different sizes of bushings, and attention needs to be paid during this procedure!).

The lower control arms use the same bushing on either end, and is not imperative to look for differences. However, the uppper control arms use different bushing on either end, and must be compared to the OEM's prior to install.

Attention must be paid to the chamfered or "lead end" of each control arm prior to pressing the bushings in.

My method used was a "BFRM", Big F***ing Rubber Mallet and a sturdy vice.

Holding the control arm horizontally against the arbor of the vice, my buddy "tatooed" the bushing into the control arm with two strikes. Once the bushing appeared seated, we proceeded to place the control arm on top of the opened jaws of the vice then strikning the bushing a few more times until fully seated into the control arms. (Read the supplied install indtructions for further detail.)

This process took all but 10 minutes to do and was ready for the install.

Second Step:

I turned off the air suspension then jacked one side of the car up using the factory jack starting on the driver's side. Once the tire was removed, I placed a floor jack directly beneath the pumpkin of the rear-end for added support. Beginning with the upper control arm, I loosened both end bolts that hold it onto the frame and axle. (These bolts are very tight, and be prepared while using hand tools to grunt like hell during this procedure.) The axle side of the control arm has a metal piece made onto the nut that will allow removal without an additional wrench. (See below) This also appies to the frame side. (Back the bolt all the way out as the nut will not fall out of it's position once the bolt is removed.)

I had to slightly raise the rear-end using the floor jack in order to remove the bolts once separated from the nuts.

Keep in mind that the upper control arms can only go in one way, with the narrow side of the control arm facing to the rear. (The tube of the control arm has a "flattened end that uses the shorter bushing.)

Place the OEM control arm on the ground in the same position as removed. Match the Z&M control arm to the OEM, paying attention to the bushing size, then install reversing the removal directions above.

Once the bolts are properly tightened (Very tight!) begin with the lower control arm removal.

The axle side of the lower control arm will require 2 sockets or wrenches in order to remove. The frame side has a self locking nut made onto a bracket, that will fall once the bolt is removed. (Make sure to have your hand on this one to prevent losing, although doubtful.)

The lower control arms can be installed either forward or back, just make sure that the bushing lip side of the control arm faces "outboard" prior to install.

Place the OEM control arm on the ground in the same position as removed. Match the Z&M control arm to the OEM, paying attention to the bushing size, then install reversing the removal directions above.

Once the wheel is in place, the floor jack removed, and all feet on the ground, make sure to turn the air suspension back on prior to driving.

Driving Experience:


The difference in handling is far more than I expected. A road that I have traveled for many years was my destination, on seeing what differences there were.

This is a very unortodox road with turns banking opposite of the direction of the road, and an excellent proving ground so to speak.

Keeping the car in second gear while maintaining ~4,000 RPM, I thrashed my MM thru these 20 MPH turns at better than 45 MPH!

The car stayed flat with no feeling of understeer nor oversteer in the least. It is hard to describe, but the car felt as if the wheelbase had been shortened by 50%, with the trunk being beneath my azz.

The car responded with no fuss whatsoever and the steering wheel remained firm while doing so.

The hardest part of the "test" was not touching the brakes as force of habit.

Turning into my subdivision is a very tight turn (90 deg.) off of a main artery, and I whipped the wheel doing 15 - 20 MPH never missing a beat or the hint of lost traction.

I do have the Addco front and rear sway bars, that only adds to this well overdue suspension mod.

Being more than impressed with this mod, I can only recommend to everyone that this be on their "shortlist" of next to do mods.

Zack and Mac,...

Thanks for making this mod a reality. Best money I have spent yet.

Now for a dyno tune,...


BTW, the OEM control arms are pieces of shat, and are of the poorest grade metal you could possibly find.

Keywords: ZMCA Zack & Mac Control Arms

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Senior Member

Registered: January 2007
Location: So CAL
Posts: 162
Review Date: Would you recommend the product? Yes | Price you paid?: Not Indicated | Rating: 9 


How much did you spend for this modification and where did you purchase it from? I just jot my addco front and rear sway bars and reading your review wnts me want to buy this next experience.
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