2014 Eaton Swap Thread Pics and Future Questions

[tbone]

Started the swap today. My goal was to get it to the point of the valve covers and front cover removed, radiator and cooler removed and get the valve covers ready for paint. Didn't quite get the valve covers ready for paint, but did stop by a local shop and had the alternator pulley swapped out and bought a new radiator. The one I got cheap on ebay was the wrong one.

Anyway, the engine is fabulous on the inside. No sludge, hardly any signs of wear, even the timing chain guides look perfect with 145k miles. I'm changing them anyway, since I already have the parts. Work 9-9 tomorrow which sucks. Next chance Thursday evening to proceed.
Cooling mod and guides/tensioners next.

In the third pic you can see a little slack in the chain on the left side. Right side is perfectly taught. Normal?

[tbone]

I should have flipped the pics before posting.

Thanks Justbob for the engine hoist trick to get the valve cover off.

[tbone]

Lots of room to work with no radiator in the way.

(The pics are flipped right on my cpu. They download wrong.) :(

[ChiTownMaraud3r]

Looking good so far. Best of luck with it.

[tbone]

Thanks man. Glad you got your car fixed!!!!

[ChiTownMaraud3r]

Thanks, yeah let me know if you need any reference pics as you go.

[tbone]

Did you do the crossover mod or the On3 delete kit? I'm doing the On3 and don't have a great grasp on how it all works and how much of the hose maze that comes from Ford remains.......

[8UWITH6]

Can you do guides and tensioners without removing the chains? LMK ;)


Good luck with your swap sir. Post lots of pics please! Subscribed!

[ChiTownMaraud3r]

I used the On3 delete kit. Yeah it seems ambiguous to set up, I don't think they have instructions included. I also purchased pre-sized and ready to go stainless hoses to go with it thanks to member Chief on here. You need to use an aluminum pipe down by the radiator hose, here's the pic that I went off of, and my car looks the same. I can take pics of my actual setup tomorrow for you.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/999531/fullsize/388-lower-radiator-hose-modded.jpg

[tbone]

I could use as many pics as possible on this one.....thx

Where did you get the pipe?

[loud2004marquis]

Good luck with it and keep us updated!

:burnout::burnout:

[ChiTownMaraud3r]

I could use as many pics as possible on this one.....thx

Where did you get the pipe?

http://www.treadstoneperformance.com/product.phtml?p=62879&prodname=70+Aluminum+Intercool er+Piping


It's the 1.5" 70* pipe, sku number AP15070.

[tbone]

Thanks Chitown!

Now I understand why a lot of the lower hose plumbing is deleted.

[sflrainmaker01]

Dude, looks great so far! Good luck! :beer: I will be following your thread and build! Keep the pics coming!

[justbob]

Your pointing to the right chain, and yes depending on cam rotation it is either loose or tight. Spin the motor by hand and watch it slap around.


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[tbone]

Your pointing to the right chain, and yes depending on cam rotation it is either loose or tight. Spin the motor by hand and watch it slap around.


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

Ah. Thanks.

[a_d_a_m]

+1, that slack is normal on 2V and 4V 4.6s.

[justbob]

Better yet, spin it with aftermarket cams and heavy duty springs! I remember I jussstt about had the cam where I wanted it and SLAM! Next thing I know my bloody hand was between my wrench on the cam and something equally as hard..


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[tbone]

Where is the best place to re-locate the knock sensor? I've seen a couple ways but would like some opinions.

[tbone]

Heading out to the garage to start Musclemerc's cooling mod, clean the front cover and reinstall that and the same for the valve covers. I'll be working until I can't stand anymore. Should be a good day.

I've decided not to powder coat or even paint the valve covers. They came in black in 2003 and they look reasonably fine. And I want them to more less match the rest of the engine which has kind of a Mad Max air about it......

[justbob]

Bolt them to the back of the heads. There is threaded holes not being used. I hope you took your wiper assembly off as that is step one for a much easier Eaton install..


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[Jeffonebuck]

Heading out to the garage to start Musclemerc's cooling mod, clean the front cover and reinstall that and the same for the valve covers. I'll be working until I can't stand anymore. Should be a good day.

I've decided not to powder coat or even paint the valve covers. They came in black in 2003 and they look reasonably fine. And I want them to more less match the rest of the engine which has kind of a Mad Max air about it......

T Bone, I substituted a Dayco 80403 hose with a molded 90* bend in it for the straight length of pipe Muscle Merc provided. The T fitting on the drivers side directs the pipe vertical and then has to 90 over to the heater return. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/19/da9ury2a.jpg


Sent from my Tapatalk using Morris Code

[tbone]

I used a 90* hose as well. He should really include it in the kit.

[tbone]

Bolt them to the back of the heads. There is threaded holes not being used. I hope you took your wiper assembly off as that is step one for a much easier Eaton install..


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

Thanks Bob. That's what I did. Surprised it works in that location. Yes I took the cowling off. No other proper way to do the job.

[ctrlraven]

Can you do guides and tensioners without removing the chains? LMK ;)


Good luck with your swap sir. Post lots of pics please! Subscribed!
Yes you can.

[tbone]

Yes you need to change your guides and tensioners with high miles. All the rest were perfect but this one. Down to the metal. So glad I took the time to do the job right. 38387

38388Not much left in the adjuster.

Also had a leak in on of the spark plug wells. Been going on for a long time. Shorted out the cop once. The big o-ring gasket was missing! This car has been apart before and some imbecile messed up.

[tbone]

New cam chain adjusters and supercharger installed.
Also got the cooling mod done.
All the covers are back on and doing the pulleys, belts, new engine radiator, supercharger cooling pump, radiator, brackets and plumbing etc. tomorrow. Oh, and the ON3 COT delete kit. Will have lots of questions on routing hoses and wiring soon. Hope you guys can help me out.

I don't understand why the pics keep getting flipped upside down when I download them. MODERATORS???

[tbone]

Supercharger installed. No I didn't install it upside down. :(

[ChiTownMaraud3r]

I will get you some pics tomorrow. Sorry for delay been very hectic at work/vacation plans etc.

[tbone]

I will feed you and pay for your gas if you come over on Sunday and let me inspect your car and take some pics. Seriously. Tuesdays are good too.

[ChiTownMaraud3r]

I will feed you and pay for your gas if you come over on Sunday and let me inspect your car and take some pics. Seriously. Tuesdays are good too.

Lol I might take you up on that. Getting my wideband bung welded on tomorrow after work. Sunday looks like it might work though. I will let you know.

[tbone]

Did someone say wideband bung weld? I paid $40. Felt it was a bit high but whatcha gonna do?

[tbone]

Chitown,
Forget about the pics of the Cot delete. I figured it all out. Once you sit and look at it for 5 minutes it's easy.

Hey, did your kit come with a plug for the head cooling mod return line which we don't do?
Which tstat did you go with? My 180 stat is too big. I know everyone says Mazeire, but I don't want to wait around for it to come UPS.

[Zack]

Any 54mm t-stat from a SBC or 93 Mustang with a 5.0 will work.

Make sure you have the gasket inside from Gates.

[Zack]

Gates # 33615 is the gasket number

[tbone]

Going to the store now. Thanks Zack.

Having issues with my custom alternator bracket. Needs at least 1/2" spacers on 2 of 3 holes in addition to the 1/8" spacer that was sent to me. Damn those pulleys are close to the cover.

Woke up at 2:30 am and started working. 1 1/2 hours sleep is plenty.....

[ChiTownMaraud3r]

Not sure about the cooling mod return line on the delete kit. Zack took care of fabbing that up.

[Zack]

Going to the store now. Thanks Zack.

Having issues with my custom alternator bracket. Needs at least 1/2" spacers on 2 of 3 holes in addition to the 1/8" spacer that was sent to me. Damn those pulleys are close to the cover.

Woke up at 2:30 am and started working. 1 1/2 hours sleep is plenty.....

Use the spacer he provided, and install (2) 1/4" washers on the studs to space the bracket. That what I did..
Thats plenty.

[tbone]

I needed 5 washers on each of the right ones and the 1/8" spacer on the left. Seems good now. What a pita.

Chitown - I won't be ready on Sunday. Not making as much progress as I thought today. Pics later.

I figured out that the cooling mod fitting must go to the heater core line that used to connect to the COT. I found an odd fitting in the wrong baggie and I was wondering what the hell it was for.

[tbone]

How do you get the throttle and cruise line off the old bracket? I'm stumped.

[tbone]

Got the pulleys in and all hooked up. Took 5 washers to fill in the gaps in the alternator pulley and line it up. Installed the new battery. Hooked up Musclemercs catch can. Went shopping for various odds and ends.

[ChiTownMaraud3r]

Tbone. Try to pressure test your intercooler before installing. My car just went through a tank of intercooler coolant today, it started feeling sluggish after some slow rush hour traffic, I figured it was heat soaked, when I got home the tank was bone dry and I had just filled it up 40 min before as it was nearing the bottom of the tank again. (Was also low last friday when I last checked, and filled it.)

Now I have to remove the blower most likely, WTF.

[tbone]

My blower, intercooler and lower are all brand new off a crate motor, never disassembled. I'll be ok. Sorry for your troubles.

Maybe you can swing by a week from Sunday?

[ChiTownMaraud3r]

I don't think I'll be driving it much with this problem. I am on vacation next week through Sunday but out of town. I will look into removing the blower for inspection. This really sucks. It's enough of a pain to replace the injectors after everything is on.

[tbone]

You could try some stop leak.....what the hell......

[Zack]

Tom, why on earth did you keep that hose on the passenger side. The cooling mod gets hooked right to the heater core, eliminating the steel pipe along the passenger side.

[lji372]

Tom, why on earth did you keep that hose on the passenger side. The cooling mod gets hooked right to the heater core, eliminating the steel pipe along the passenger side.

I've read connect to the heater core, connect to the cot tube, and that it's not needed. What's a girl to do.....

[Zack]

Tom, you're supposed to install the alternator bracket over the studs and just use a nut and washer. I had to use 2 washers to get it perfect

[tbone]

My bad. Did not know. Turned out fine. Happy.

[tbone]

Tom, why on earth did you keep that hose on the passenger side. The cooling mod gets hooked right to the heater core, eliminating the steel pipe along the passenger side.

Dude, I haven't done this **** before. I followed musclemercs instructions.

[tbone]

Tom, why on earth did you keep that hose on the passenger side. The cooling mod gets hooked right to the heater core, eliminating the steel pipe along the passenger side.

I ran a hose from the front of the steel tube that used to connect to the small COT fitting to the fitting on the side of the ON3 COT delete kit tstat housing. Made sense to me. I can still retrofit it if this is not optimal. If it works, then fine.

[Zack]

I ran a hose from the front of the steel tube that used to connect to the small COT fitting to the fitting on the side of the ON3 COT delete kit tstat housing. Made sense to me. I can still retrofit it if this is not optimal. If it works, then fine.

Additional hoses and BS for nothing. Hook the cooling mod directly to the heater core

[tbone]

Additional hoses and BS for nothing. Hook the cooling mod directly to the heater core

At the rear of the pipe, what does it connect to? A dead end? I tried to look down there, but it's hard to see.

What connects to the side of the t stat housing on the ON3 kit. Do you just plug it off?

[Zack]

At the rear of the pipe, what does it connect to? A dead end? I tried to look down there, but it's hard to see.

What connects to the side of the t stat housing on the ON3 kit. Do you just plug it off?

The steel pipe gets removed.
The tstat housing gets plugged.

The right outlet of the heater core goes to the cooling mod
The left goes to the water pump tube.

(as viewed from the front of the car)

[tbone]

Thanks, I'll take another look at it.

[tbone]

How do you get the throttle and cruise line off the old bracket? I'm stumped.

Nevermind. I was afraid of pinching the plastic keepers thinking they would be brittle and break like most of the plastic pieces on the car. Came off in 2 seconds.

[tbone]

You know the little tube that carries coolant to the top of the old intake, left side of the pvc plug fitting, while the right side one carried coolant to the COT....does that just get plugged up?

[justbob]

Yes.


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[tbone]

What was the purpose of that crazy setup?

[Zack]

What was the purpose of that crazy setup?

To warm up the intake manifold in cold climates.

[tbone]

____________________

[tbone]

______________

[sflrainmaker01]

It looks like you are making good progress! Can't wait to hear how the first test drive goes!:burnout:

[tbone]

Tim Barth sent me my startup tune today. Wasn't hard to get him to do it in the least. Can't wait until June 10!

[tbone]

Spun the EGR around for clearance, removed the EGR pipe, removed the coolant pipe that runs up the side of the engine, figured out the layout for the revised coolant hookups. Thanks for the tips.
Ran out of time and now at work bumming that I'm not at home getting this puppy done.....

[guspech750]

Spun the EGR around for clearance, removed the EGR pipe, removed the coolant pipe that runs up the side of the engine, figured out the layout for the revised coolant hookups. Thanks for the tips.
Ran out of time and now at work bumming that I'm not at home getting this puppy done.....

Soon my friend. Soon.


Sent from The White House on taxpayers dimes.

DTR + 4.10's + Eaton swap = Wreeeeeeeeeeeeeeedom

[Zack]

Don't rush

[tbone]

I can't stand the suspense.......

[tbone]

Does it matter which is the inlet and outlet on the intercooler on the Eaton?

[TAKEDOWN]

Excited over here for you, wish I was mechanically inclined to lend a hand or suggestions. I'll stay outta the way and wait for the unveiling!

[tbone]

Guspech came over and helped with a ton of vac hookup questions, brackets, wiring, etc. Got a ton of s*** done and figured out. Joe noticed I had a ribbed pulley on my supercharger tensioner. Missed that one! O'reilly Auto Parts came through.
THANKS JOE!!!!!!:beer:

Worked 14 hours again. Battery cables run across and everything powers up fine. Nice and neat. Alternator extension done. Fuse box brackets made and mounted.


One problem I have is that the throttle cable is now 1" too long. I hear a bracket welded on is one solution. I thought I might try crimping some fishing weights on the cable inside the car.....

Is the cruise control affected at all with the length issue?

[Zack]

You need to offset the cables exactly 3/4"

[8UWITH6]

Do you recommend having someone weld this bracket or is JB weld sufficient?

[tbone]

You need to offset the cables exactly 3/4"

Could you elaborate on this Zack?

[guspech750]

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/27/e7etedyv.jpg

I did not do this mod and all is just fine.


Sent from The White House on taxpayers dimes.

DTR + 4.10's + Eaton swap = Wreeeeeeeeeeeeeeedom

[8UWITH6]

L-shaped bracket that moves the round hole back 3/4". I am sure he will post a picture.

[tbone]

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/27/e7etedyv.jpg

I did not do this mod and all is just fine.


Sent from The White House on taxpayers dimes.

DTR + 4.10's + Eaton swap = Wreeeeeeeeeeeeeeedom

You're special. :bunny3:

My pedal is halfway to the floor.

[tbone]

What do those little plastic things inside the return spring do anyway?

[tbone]

L-shaped bracket that moves the round hole back 3/4". I am sure he will post a picture.

When he said cables (plural) I thought he meant something else. So I guess the cruise cable is not affected?

[tbone]

Almost done.

Made the flex EGR last night. Thanks Zack.

[guspech750]

You're special. :bunny3:

My pedal is halfway to the floor.

Perhaps try installing your MM throttle body. I know the Cobra and ours are identical. But I though the plastic piece on the TB that the throttle cable attaches to is slightly different.

Just a thought.


Sent from The White House on taxpayers dimes.

DTR + 4.10's + Eaton swap = Wreeeeeeeeeeeeeeedom

[Zack]

You need to mod the bracket

[tbone]

You need to mod the bracket

Maybe. I have another idea. :rolleyes:

[tbone]

What do those little plastic things inside the return spring do anyway?

Bueller????

[tbone]

What size fuse does the intercooler pump require? Wired it all up last night with the circuit breaker and ready to install. I was thinking 20 amp?

[Zack]

20 is fine

[tbone]

Special ordered the wrap at Advance. Thanks Justbob.

Pump wiring ready to go.

[tbone]

Nice new radiator installed.

Notice the double zip ties on the COT delete hoses. If one zip tie failed, it would be rubbed through from the belt in about 5 seconds.

I used the junction block method to terminate the battery cables and get power to the other side. I sprayed some undercoating on it to protect it from corrosion. Looks good black too.

Some pics are still downloading upside down......

[Zack]

Great work Tom

[tbone]

Is there a market for this or should I just throw it in the recycling bin?

[tbone]

A couple more progress pics.

Thanks Zack. I appreciate the tips you've given me, especially the flex EGR. It was easy with your research done.

[justbob]

You REALLY need to save up for a better camera..


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[Zack]

Route your throttle/cruise cables behind the engine.
Looks way better that way

[8UWITH6]

Did you use 5/8" or 3/4" heater hose for the intercooler hoses? LMK thanks.

[Zack]

Did you use 5/8" or 3/4" heater hose for the intercooler hoses? LMK thanks.

3/4 from bottom outlet of reservoir to the pump.
3/4 from the pump to the Heat Exchanger.
5/8 from Heat exchanger to water outlet
5/8 from water outlet to 5/8-3/4 adapter, then back to reservoir

[JoeBoomz]

Stock intakes can sell, don't throw them out. Someone will want them.

If you want to just get rid of them, I'll pay for the shipping to me.

[martyo]

Stock intakes can sell, don't throw them out. Someone will want them.

If you want to just get rid of them, I'll pay for the shipping to me.

I will raise him $8

[tbone]

Route your throttle/cruise cables behind the engine.
Looks way better that way

I haven't finished tucking, nipping, taping and tidying everything up yet.

[tbone]

You REALLY need to save up for a better camera..


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

I didn't notice that one pic is blurry. But yeah, camera phones still have a way to go.....

[tbone]

Stock intakes can sell, don't throw them out. Someone will want them.

If you want to just get rid of them, I'll pay for the shipping to me.


Any idea on value?

[sflrainmaker01]

Looks good, man! Almost there! :beer:
Don't worry about spending money on the camera. You'll probably need that extra dough for some new rear tires soon! :burnout::burnout:

[tbone]

My brand new Nitto's won't last long......

[8UWITH6]

Special ordered the wrap at Advance. Thanks Justbob.

Pump wiring ready to go.

Everything looks good so far man. Can you tell me about how long that IC pump harnesz you made is? I would like to start preparing or making stuff like this to minimize down time. :-) keep up the good work and thanks for the help on the IC hoses.

[Zack]

Everything looks good so far man. Can you tell me about how long that IC pump harnesz you made is? I would like to start preparing or making stuff like this to minimize down time. :-) keep up the good work and thanks for the help on the IC hoses.

I helped you with the hoses you tard.
Measure from the fuse box down to about the bottom of the frame. That will suffice and then some

[8UWITH6]

Thanks for your help too Zack. Im just afraid my measuring will be different from most others........... I wouldnt want to make the harness too short.

[tbone]

Got the pump all wired up and tested. Works like a champ. Did a ton of wiring tonight. Another 10 hours without a break.

About all I have left is a little more wiring, mounting the intercooler radiator and running the hoses, screwing on the EGR I made and downloading the startup tune to my xcal. Then pucker up my butt and turn the key......

I also ordered up a different belt and got a 90mm tensioner pulley today. I'll have them installed later when I get my dyno tune. Also ordered a driveshaft loop. Then I want to do some various odds and ends to the car to make it as perfect as possible.

[guspech750]

Thanks for your help too Zack. Im just afraid my measuring will be different from most others........... I wouldnt want to make the harness too short.

Don't measure in metric and you'll be fine. ;)


Sent from The White House on taxpayers dimes.

DTR + 4.10's + Eaton swap = Wreeeeeeeeeeeeeeedom

[tbone]

Everything looks good so far man. Can you tell me about how long that IC pump harnesz you made is? I would like to start preparing or making stuff like this to minimize down time. :-) keep up the good work and thanks for the help on the IC hoses.

I made it long enough so when I mounted the relay and stuff I could lower it to the ground easily. Mount it, spool up the excess and zip tie it off.

[tbone]

Down to wiring up my last harness. The one for the alternator plug.
Tomorrow I mount the EGR tube, intercooler radiator and then plumb it. Xcal II is downloaded with Tim Barth's startup tune and ready to go.

Can't miss the Hawks game so not sure if I will finish by 7 pm, but it will be close. Wife wants me in the morning for church, lunch and ummm, some other stuff.....

I want to start it so bad I can taste it!

[Zack]

Slow and steady wins the race

[tbone]

Belt for 90mm tensioner and 3.0 pulley on the way. Going to have the shop install it that does the dyno tune because of the pulley puller issue.

Also have a driveshaft loop on the way.

[tbone]

Slow and steady wins the race

I've got about, oh, 70 or so hours in it. But that includes pulling the valve and cam chain covers. I've been very methodical, and Joe came over and helped one day. I think the work will speak for itself when I'm done. :)

[tbone]

Started it up. I had the tstat in the ON3 Cot delete kit installed backwards. Fixed that, no problem.

Problem is, it idles really high and won't come down. Like 1700 rpm. No codes thrown. Butterfly valves closed. No hanging cable. PVC valves seated. Turned the idle down all the way on my xcal. No difference.

I have not installed the intercooler radiator and coolant yet. I just wanted to start it for a few minutes and see how it ran and troubleshoot. Would that make a difference to a sensor and cause it to idle high?

I hollowed out the passenger side PCV valve. I wired the Cobra IAT2 sensor with the IAT2 and signal return wire.

Any ideas and advice would be appreciated.

[justbob]

Sounds like an IAC or throttle body issue.


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[justbob]

Things to check.

Do you have any unmetered air entering the intake tube?

Do you have a TB spacer and is it perhaps upside down?

Did you recheck your IAC wiring?

Is the MAF facing the right way?




Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[Zack]

First thing that comes to mind:
Your inlet is for a single blade tb and you have a stock dual blade installed

[tbone]

Unmetered air....Don't think so except I took the plunger out of the pcv that connects to the intake tube.
No spacer.
If the IAC wiring was incorrect, wouldn't it throw a code?
MAF airflow direction is correct.

[justbob]

What did you do for the drivers side PCV hose? If it's rubber, it is sucking itself shut. Not like I can tell by your awesome clear pictures...


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[tbone]

First thing that comes to mind:
Your inlet is for a single blade tb and you have a stock dual blade installed

The stock Marauder throttle body looks just like the Cobra throttle body I bought. Both dual blade. (???)

[tbone]

What did you do for the drivers side PCV hose? If it's rubber, it is sucking itself shut. Not like I can tell by your awesome clear pictures...


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

Musclemercs catch can with the wire inside.

[justbob]

Iac won't throw codes.

We ran into this on Mikes, but I'll be damned if I can remember what dumb brainfart move caused it. Easy fix is all I remember. All I remember was I was tired.. Zzzzz


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[tbone]

First pic Marauder tb.
Second pic Cobra tb installed.
Third pic shows pcv setup.

[tbone]

The used Cobra rubber intake I bought is hard to get super tight around the throttle body. I'm starting to suspect that f***er is the cause.

[justbob]

What did you plug the hole on the intake that isn't used with?


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[tbone]

A bolt. Under Joe's direct supervision.

[justbob]

TB gasket blocking the hole for the IAC? (One made for IAC delete)


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[tbone]

I checked the orientation carefully. I'll double check it.

[tbone]

IAC orientation fine. I'm not supposed to get a different one than the stock Marauder one am I? There's 2 small V shaped holes in it that aren't in the Cobra plenum.

[justbob]

So you do have a clear passage for air pre TB blades to the IAC, then from IAC to inlet correct?


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[Zack]

Your IAC is backwards

[tbone]

So you do have a clear passage for air pre TB blades to the IAC, then from IAC to inlet correct?


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

As far as I can tell.

I refitted the rubber inlet to the throttle body and eliminated that as the culprit.

[tbone]

Your IAC is backwards

I saw a picture of the exploded Cobra assembly and copied the orientation from that. I know the Marauder one faced forwards. So it's backwards eh? F*** I hope that's all it is.

[tbone]

Another question. When I had the tstat installed backwards, the engine was likely overheating. I've heard these engines are very sensitive to it. Should I be worried?

[Zack]

I saw a picture of the exploded Cobra assembly and copied the orientation from that. I know the Marauder one faced forwards. So it's backwards eh?

Yes its backwards


Another question. When I had the tstat installed backwards, the engine was likely overheating. I've heard these engines are very sensitive to it. Should I be worried?


No its fine.

[tbone]

How aggressively can I drive it with Tim's startup tune?

[tbone]

Thank you Zack. I appreciate your help. I'll post up after work the results.

[Zack]

How aggressively can I drive it with Tim's startup tune?

Just wait for the dyno to go all out.

[tbone]

BTW Zack, your EGR design was a Godsend. 5 minutes and installed. You should market them.

[Zack]

BTW Zack, your EGR design was a Godsend. 5 minutes and installed. You should market them.

Thanks.
I prefer to give people the design or idea.....less work for me

[tbone]

Yep, the IAC was backwards. Good eye Zack!

Now that the RPM's are down, I notice that the Metco lower pulley wobbles very slightly. The main pulley is perfect, so I know I didn't bend the shaft or pulley or anything. Something to worry about? Those f***ing Metco pulley bolts were unbelievably tight and hard to crank down!

Runs great except it takes a minute for the rpm's to come down after you rev it, just like stock. I'm sure the new dyno tune will fix that, just like last time.

[Zack]

Yep, the IAC was backwards. Good eye Zack!

Now that the RPM's are down, I notice that the Metco lower pulley wobbles slightly. The main pulley is perfect, so I know I didn't bend the shaft or pulley or anything. Something to worry about? Those f***ing Metco pulley bolts were unbelievably tight and hard to crank down!

You need to chase the threads before installing those bolts.
Take it off, sand down the mounting surface of the balancer, chase threads, re-install.

[tbone]

Good advice. I did try to chase those threads. Beat the **** out of my cheap vise trying to hold it. I don't have a proper workbench to hold it in place. I'll fix it someday. Maybe.

[Zack]

Good advice. I did try to chase those threads. Beat the **** out of my cheap vise trying to hold it. I don't have a proper workbench to hold it in place. I'll fix it someday. Maybe.

Im referring to the threads on the harmonic balancer.

[tbone]

I know what you meant.

[justbob]

Yep, the IAC was backwards. Good eye Zack!



No kidding. Unless it's just the way it's coming up on my phone, I can't make out anything in your pics!

Loctite them Metco bolts!



Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[tbone]

No kidding. Unless it's just the way it's coming up on my phone, I can't make out anything in your pics!

Loctite them Metco bolts!



Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

It's your phone then. The pics are perfectly fine.

[tbone]

Alright, so I have an issue. The supercharger is making a knocking sound. It started after a short test drive. I thought it was the tensioner at first and replaced it, but the knocking is still there. I know it's the supercharger because I pulled the belt and started it. Sound gone.

I pulled the front pulley cover where the sound seems to be coming from and all seems tight and no play in anything. I know the oil was full, I checked it when I first bought it. But not a lot came out when I pulled the cover. The gears were still covered in oil though.

Does the intercooler cool the supercharger in addition to cooling the air or is its' purpose only to cool the air?

Watch this youtube video to hear the sound.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cqw0mb5P6QQ&feature=youtu.be

[justbob]

Sounds to me like a small screw was dropped into the intake perhaps before you purchased it.

And no, the intercooler only cools the IATs.

How does it feel spinning by hand?


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[tbone]

It feels perfect spinning by hand.

I guess the next step is to take it all apart....This thing is brand new. What BS.

[Zack]

If the lower pulley is loose it will make that sound......and go away with the belt off

[Zack]

Does the sound remain after you put it back together with new oil?

[tbone]

I checked the lower pulley and it's tight as a drum, although it has the very slight wobble. I have not tried to put it back together again with new oil. I was going to try that and if it doesn't work, pull the whole thing off and root around in there. At least it's better than pulling the ps valve cover. What could have happened to that oil? I KNOW it was full.

PS Tim's startup tune he sent me didn't work. The speedo wouldn't go over 20 and the car wouldn't shift right. I put his last dyno tune back in and it runs fine. The A/F ratio monitor was all over the place though. Go from full rich to full lean and back to center.

[tbone]

Got my Metco driveshaft loop yesterday. Holy cow is that thing heavy duty! Now I know why it costs $100.

[Zack]

I have an eaton you can use to make your dyno appt, you just have to come down and get it.

[guspech750]

Holy crap Tom. I sure hope that new Eaton you bought was not secretly buggered up by some dope.


Sent from The White House on taxpayers dimes.

DTR + 4.10's + Eaton swap = Wreeeeeeeeeeeeeeedom

[tbone]

Thanks for the offer Zack. Depending on what happens, I may just have to take you up on it.....

[tbone]

Holy crap Tom. I sure hope that new Eaton you bought was not secretly buggered up by some dope.


Sent from The White House on taxpayers dimes.

DTR + 4.10's + Eaton swap = Wreeeeeeeeeeeeeeedom

It sure looked virgin to me. Fully assembled.

There was no gasket between the front cover/pulley and the body. I thought that was weird. Oil leak? I will definitely use some gasket maker when I re-assemble it.

[Zack]

Might be the coupling, check that.

[tbone]

The three pronged coupling to the gear? It looks and acts perfect too. No play, turns freely. Nothing looks "burnt". I don't get it. Hope it's just the oil issue.

[justbob]

Got my Metco driveshaft loop yesterday. Holy cow is that thing heavy duty! Now I know why it costs $100.


Now have fun putting it on with the S.W.


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[justbob]

Wrap a lawn mower pull start around it a few times and give it a whirl. Isolates the lower and tensioner at least.


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[Zack]

Wrap a lawn mower pull start around it a few times and give it a whirl. Isolates the lower and tensioner at least.


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"


You go to your sex toy drawer for that Bob.. while the rest of us have to go buy one. :eek:

[tbone]

Wrap a lawn mower pull start around it a few times and give it a whirl. Isolates the lower and tensioner at least.


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

I was going to try using a drill somehow. Good idea with some rope or something....

I already replaced the tensioner. 2 bad ones in a row? Stranger things have happened......

I was thinking about the driveshaft loop and the SW exhaust and the interference issue that may arise. Have you tried it?

My money is on the oil slowly dripped out......God, I hope that's all it is.

[justbob]

You go to your sex toy drawer for that Bob.. while the rest of us have to go buy one. :eek:

Nothing in there but ball gags and finger cuffs!!


I was going to try using a drill somehow. Good idea with some rope or something....

I already replaced the tensioner. 2 bad ones in a row? Stranger things have happened......

I was thinking about the driveshaft loop and the SW exhaust and the interference issue that may arise. Have you tried it?

My money is on the oil slowly dripped out......God, I hope that's all it is.


No I haven't yet Tom. It's on the list. I currently don't even have one installed. I might just re fab my old Lakewood one to fit.


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[tbone]

It was the tensioner again. I relieved pressure on it with a wrench and the sound instantly went away. 1st tensioner was genuine Ford, which lasted a while. Second one was a Dayco that rattled from the start. Going to go for a Roush next. Relieved, and a little ticked at the same time. The only silver lining in the saga is that I discovered my supercharger snout wasn't sealed properly with any gasket or silicione and was nearly dry. THAT would have much, much worse.

[MOTOWN]

It was the tensioner again. I relieved pressure on it with a wrench and the sound instantly went away. 1st tensioner was genuine Ford, which lasted a while. Second one was a Dayco that rattled from the start. Going to go for a Roush next. Relieved, and a little ticked at the same time. The only silver lining in the saga is that I discovered my supercharger snout wasn't sealed properly with any gasket or silicione and was nearly dry. THAT would have much, much worse.

Sounds like you need a THUMP RRR!

[tbone]

I would love one but not at THOSE prices.

[MOTOWN]

I would love one but not at THOSE prices.

Gotta agree with you on that! they are a bit pricey!:depress:

[Zack]

Get a UPR Tom, way better than the Roush

[tbone]

Too late. Ordered for 2 day delivery. Joe has one and says it has been trouble free. That's all I care about.

[tbone]

Looks nice. $60 more.... Gotta draw the line somewhere.

http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/yhst-37354654005614_2268_35698215

[tbone]

I just got my intercooler system all plumbed and hooked up. I was rather expecting to see rapid coolant movement but I don't really see any. Is this normal?

[MOTOWN]

I just got my intercooler system all plumbed and hooked up. I was rather expecting to see rapid coolant movement but I don't really see any. Is this normal?

Yeah Very normal, just make sure no air is in the lines.

[tbone]

Yeah Very normal, just make sure no air is in the lines.

I thought of air trapped in the lines. How do you bleed it?

[Zack]

I do this:

Fill the heat exchanger
Then fill the reservoir.
Disconnect relay or negative terminal.
Turn key to on
Hook up relay or negative cable until the reservoir level drops a little
Fill reservoir
Repeat until reservoir does not accept any more coolant.

The coolant should be flowing into the reservoir like a garden hose.

[tbone]

I do this:

Fill the heat exchanger
Then fill the reservoir.
Disconnect relay or negative terminal.
Turn key to on
Hook up relay or negative cable until the reservoir level drops a little
Fill reservoir
Repeat until reservoir does not accept any more coolant.

The coolant should be flowing into the reservoir like a garden hose.

That's what I thought. Not happening.

[Zack]

That's what I thought. Not happening.


Did you switch positive and negative?
Don't laugh, I've done it.

[ChiTownMaraud3r]

Mine was physically burbling and splashing around in the tank when it was working.

[tbone]

Did you switch positive and negative?
Don't laugh, I've done it.


Both wires coming off the pump were white and I was led to believe it didn't matter how they were hooked up. Seemed strange to me.

[Zack]

Both wires coming off the pump were white and I was led to believe it didn't matter how they were hooked up. Seemed strange to me.

The pump has a + and - cast into the plastic, to the left and right of the connector.

[tbone]

It's backwards then. Thanks. Would it have killed the Germans to put a red wire on the positive side and not 2 white wires? WTF?

I pulled the hose off the pump and got a half gallon of coolant dumped on my before I could get it back on. I used a 5/8" hose on a 3/4" fitting because that's what I had. All 15 minutes before I had to get to work.....At least the radiator mounting was easier than I thought it would be. Thanks to Joe for a couple pics.

Good news is that the Rousch tensioner is coming today. Appt. with Tim Tuesday. Gotta get these last few issues ironed out 100% pronto.

[justbob]

You keep calling the heat exchanger a radiator and confusing us LOL.

Glad it's starting to take shape Tom.


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[tbone]

Sorry. The big aluminum thing that sits behind the grille.

[tbone]

Intercooler pump wires reversed. Pumps great now.

Here's the good part. Installed the Rousch supercharger tensioner. Loud noise remained. Pulled the lower hub. One of the cheap ass lock washers that Metco supplied with their kit snapped and broke, leaving excess play. I must have over tightened and it squeezed out the side a bit. I saw one of the broken pieces. Went to the hardware store and got some heavy duty lock washers and now all is good.

Went for a ride. Everything seems dialed in nicely. But then I noticed that the EATC was blowing out the defrost. Nothing to do with the work, but it was another WTF moment. Went and got new O-rings. Did not fix it. I bought this one off ebay with a lifetime warranty, so not such a bad thing, other than being a PITA.

Then I get home and noticed a small puddle of oil in the driveway. It's leaking between the oil pan and the transmission. Never did that before. I'm wondering if it has something to do with jacking up the engine using the oil pan. Maybe not. Where do you think it's leaking from? Rear main seal? Hard to fix?

Happy and then frustrating day.

[tbone]

My hands are beat to sh**, they hurt like hell, I'm sleep deprived and have had mood swings that have made my wife wonder about my sanity. My bank account is empty. I'm distracted at work a lot. I will never take on a project of this magnitude again. SOOOO glad it's done, other than the dyno tune. Think long and hard before taking on an Eaton swap, and doing it by yourself with no experience.......It's not for everyone.

Thanks to everyone for the advice and a special shout out to Joe for driving all the way up one day to give me some pointers. You are a class act Joe Martin!

[8UWITH6]

Take a break from it. Dont push so hard. Is this your daily driver? If not, give it a rest.............. just sayin'.......... :beer:

[loud2004marquis]

Take a break from it. Dont push so hard. Is this your daily driver? If not, give it a rest.............. just sayin'.

^^^BIIIIG PLUS ONE^^^

Had plenty of frustrations with the process of mine and it took me four months compared to your one month. Learned about myself just as much as the car when I did the swap. You'll enjoy it after you get off that dyno, trust me!
:burnout::burnout:

[justbob]

Think of the pioneers! Trust me, you had it easy bro. I was thanking a lot of them step by step through it all my first time. I kept thinking of all the down time and trials and errors they went through.

Joes was stupid easy, Mikes not so much.. Of course with his, I was doing my 6 speed at the same time, and his quite frankly didn't like sharing the garage.. Nothing like wrenching till the last second before dyno though! For me I managed a 40 minute nap after an all nighter on his and mine!

Good luck today brotha, hope you get some good numbers!


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[ChiTownMaraud3r]

Glad to hear you are about ready for dyno tomorrow.

I know what you mean about being frustrated with it. I replaced my o-rings on my water adapter yesterday, and the car is now running, seems to be holding coolant in the intercooler, but the car is running weird. Isn't as responsive as before, in fact revving it when in park the car started missing like crazy, puff puff puff sound out of the exhaust, and then threw 5 coil pack codes.

I'm wondering if the coolant leak into the intake ruined my spark plugs, or 02 sensors which are causing coil pack issues. Cats could also be bad now... ughhhh damn car.

[sflrainmaker01]

My hands are beat to sh**, they hurt like hell, I'm sleep deprived and have had mood swings that have made my wife wonder about my sanity. My bank account is empty. I'm distracted at work a lot. I will never take on a project of this magnitude again. SOOOO glad it's done, other than the dyno tune. Think long and hard before taking on an Eaton swap, and doing it by yourself with no experience.......It's not for everyone.

Thanks to everyone for the advice and a special shout out to Joe for driving all the way up one day to give me some pointers. You are a class act Joe Martin!

That's what I been thinking. On one hand it's neat to be in there wrenching on your car with an awesome upgrade like an Eaton, but then again, it seems like it would be worth it (time vs money and aggravation) to pay someone else to do it with experience. Then, you still reap the benefits! I work a lot, so off time is very limited. Glad you are pretty much ready for the dyno! Can't wait to see the numbers! Good luck!

[tbone]

Think of the pioneers! Trust me, you had it easy bro. I was thanking a lot of them step by step through it all my first time. I kept thinking of all the down time and trials and errors they went through.

Joes was stupid easy, Mikes not so much.. Of course with his, I was doing my 6 speed at the same time, and his quite frankly didn't like sharing the garage.. Nothing like wrenching till the last second before dyno though! For me I managed a 40 minute nap after an all nighter on his and mine!

Good luck today brotha, hope you get some good numbers!


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"


Thanks Bob. Yeah, the "pioneers' definitely made it easier for us shade tree guys.....

Wondering about that oil leak. What is your take on it?

[ChiTownMaraud3r]

That's what I been thinking. On one hand it's neat to be in there wrenching on your car with an awesome upgrade like an Eaton, but then again, it seems like it would be worth it (time vs money and aggravation) to pay someone else to do it with experience. Then, you still reap the benefits! I work a lot, so off time is very limited. Glad you are pretty much ready for the dyno! Can't wait to see the numbers! Good luck!

I paid to have mine installed, to save myself from complications and lack of time to do it, and I'm still not reaping the benefits.

Be weary of an eaton swap. Tons of work and commitment, and it can easily not go as planned. And don't even think about doing it if it's your daily, or don't have any tools or garage space to maintain it when the occasional issue pop up unexpectedly.

[sflrainmaker01]

I paid to have mine installed, to save myself from complications and lack of time to do it, and I'm still not reaping the benefits.

Be weary of an eaton swap. Tons of work and commitment, and it can easily not go as planned. And don't even think about doing it if it's your daily, or don't have any tools or garage space to maintain it when the occasional issue pop up unexpectedly.

Yeah, been wondering about all that. I'm torn between just buying a Trilogy already done or biting the bullet and doing an Eaton swap. I'm kinda leaning towards a Trilogy car. I'd like to try out a Trilogy car for a while and make sure its all I think it would be, first. :rolleyes: Then, sell my 04 (since everything is pretty much done) to recoup some of my money. I don't use the Marauder as a DD. I usually drive it about 2 or 3 days a week to work if the weather is going to be nice.

[justbob]

Yeah, been wondering about all that. I'm torn between just buying a Trilogy already done or biting the bullet and doing an Eaton swap. I'm kinda leaning towards a Trilogy car. I'd like to try out a Trilogy car for a while and make sure its all I think it would be, first. :rolleyes: Then, sell my 04 (since everything is pretty much done) to recoup some of my money. I don't use the Marauder as a DD. I usually drive it about 2 or 3 days a week to work if the weather is going to be nice.


Might be selling my kit very soon with plenty of extras...


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[justbob]

Thanks Bob. Yeah, the "pioneers' definitely made it easier for us shade tree guys.....

Wondering about that oil leak. What is your take on it?


Tom I really couldn't tell you? It's a sealed chamber (or not in your case) that only holds a few ozs of oil. If it leaked out you would have to have noticed it or smelled it?


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[sflrainmaker01]

Might be selling my kit very soon with plenty of extras...


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

Let me know...

[tbone]

Tom I really couldn't tell you? It's a sealed chamber (or not in your case) that only holds a few ozs of oil. If it leaked out you would have to have noticed it or smelled it?


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

No no. I was talking about the leak between the oil pan and transmission that I described as never having had before jacking up the engine with the oil pan. Probably the rear main seal......
I tightened the oil pan bolts a bit and put some main seal stop leak in. Was not dripping after idling in driveway for 45 minutes this afternoon.

As far as the supercharger oil, I was able to squeeze about 6-7 oz. in there.

[tbone]

Might be selling my kit very soon with plenty of extras...


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"


Let me guess what's next:
TURBINE POWERED TURBO SUPERCHARGED NITROUS ROCKET MOTOR WITH AFTERBURNERS AND NUCLEAR EMERGENCY THRUST BUTTON
WITH 1.1 GIGAWATTS OF BACKUP ELECTRICAL POWER
(and widened rear wheels)

[justbob]

Link please? :)

J/K nothing fancy, just different for a change.

And quicker.


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[tbone]

Here at MPH. A little nervous. Excited. Almost overslept.

[ChiTownMaraud3r]

Pics and vids or it didn't happen!

[justbob]

Pics and vids or it didn't happen!


He's only been there 5 hours. Give him a few more. :)


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[justbob]

Well I recon your done by now... Spill it homie.


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[tbone]

1. Faulty intermittent connection on superior quality German made Bosch intercooler pump.
2. Free Cobra IAT2 sensor given to me was faulty. Kept reading 160 and retarding timing. None to be had until Thursday.
3. Alternator went south, just as predicted. None to be had until tomorrow.
4. Power output sucked. 330 ft lbs. Tim will figure it out.
5. Dyno booked until next week.
6. Car sits at MPH.
7. Tired and pissed off.

Thanks to Bradley for giving me a ride home. Was there from 8:45 am to 6:45 pm.

[MOTOWN]

1. Faulty intermittent connection on superior quality German made Bosch intercooler pump.
2. Free Cobra IAT2 sensor given to me was faulty. Kept reading 160 and retarding timing. None to be had until Thursday.
3. Alternator went south, just as predicted. None to be had until tomorrow.
4. Power output sucked. 330 ft lbs. Tim will figure it out.
5. Dyno booked until next week.
6. Car sits at MPH.
7. Tired and pissed off.

Thanks to Bradley for giving me a ride home. Was there from 8:45 am to 6:45 pm.

This is the reality of modding a vehicle, just be patient and work thru it, if it was easy everyone would do it!

[tbone]

This is the reality of modding a vehicle, just be patient and work thru it, if it was easy everyone would do it!

I know it. Tim said even vehicles they build take a while to sort out......

[justbob]

Sorry to hear Tom. At least it is all simple repairs and he is cool with you working on it there.

Check your wiring on the relay and where you tapped the fuse for the pump.


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[Zack]

Sorry Tom. Been there done that.....many times

[ChiTownMaraud3r]

Sucks to hear my friend. My car has been pissing me off since the swap. Nevertheless, it will get sorted out as will mine.

You can't expect this much custom work to go 100% smoothly...we're not opening a box and reading an instruction manual on how to assemble a warrantied blower setup. I guess that would have been a Trilogy and it's associated higher price.

[tbone]

Sorry to hear Tom. At least it is all simple repairs and he is cool with you working on it there.

Check your wiring on the relay and where you tapped the fuse for the pump.


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"


Thanks guys. I'm pretty depressed today.

Bob, the problem was with the pigtail, not my wiring. I would wiggle it and it would start and stop, then stopped completely. I finally pushed sideways on it, heard a click, and now all is good with that. :confused:
Hence my dig on "German quality".

[tbone]

I will say that it sounded so freakin mean when he got on it. I was smiling. For a while.......

[tbone]

He was checking the torque converter for robbing power when the alternator went out. It's a 10" 2800-3200 Roadrunner supposedly marketed for street and strip.
It was cheap. Only $350. Worked GREAT n/a.

Opinions?

[MOTOWN]

He was checking the torque converter for robbing power when the alternator went out. It's a 10" 2800-3200 Roadrunner supposedly marketed for street and strip.
It was cheap. Only $350. Worked GREAT n/a.

Opinions?

Sounds like you got what you paid for, a cheap converter! get a PI, or a circle D

[jwibbity]

Sounds like you got what you paid for, a cheap converter! get a PI, or a circle D

Blue Oval Chips has a real nice street/strip converter that Circle D builds for them, and you can customize the stall, it starts with a stock Marauder/MAch1 converter and gets beefed up internally

[tbone]

BradleyG was telling me Lonnie sold him a $$ converter. Not even close to being a reality for me. $700 or so would be the max.

[Zack]

My Circle D was $1100.
Worth EVERY PENNY!!!!

[jwibbity]

BradleyG was telling me Lonnie sold him a $1300 converter. Not even close to being a reality for me. $700 or so would be the max.

thats there top of the line converter, the street/strip is like 450, thats what I have in mine

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CB8QFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.blueovalc hips.com%2Findex.php%3Fl%3Dpro duct_list%26c%3D14&ei=DIaYU6bYC-nMsASct4HwDw&usg=AFQjCNGO7aujmOh8_rr3ZAOKWz ILpaVGnw&bvm=bv.68693194,d.cWc&cad=rja

there site is really slow today, got it from google

[tbone]

I still have the stock converter. Is that a realistic option? I know it's not optimal, but......

[tbone]

My Circle D was $1100.
Worth EVERY PENNY!!!!

I just don't have the coin. Went way over budget. Any other affordable options Zack? Any lines on a decent used one you know of?

[tbone]

Maybe it's not the problem at all. Time and Tim will tell.....

[ChiTownMaraud3r]

I would blame the alternator first. Remember the alternators don't all like being reversed sometimes. The low power output could be related to this and faulty IAT2. Have to sort things out one thing at a time.

[Zack]

I would verify the wiring to the IAT2 before replacing it. It is very unlikely it went bad.
Pins 3&4 are what gets hooked up.

[tbone]

I would verify the wiring to the IAT2 before replacing it. It is very unlikely it went bad.
Pins 3&4 are what gets hooked up.

That's what I used.

[justbob]

Stock converter is just fine. Assuming it is just fine..


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[tbone]

Worked perfectly when I last used it. Had about 135k on it though.

To replace it, can't you just unbolt the trans and slide it back just enough to get it in, without pulling the SW exhaust, etc. etc.?

[justbob]

Worked perfectly when I last used it. Had about 135k on it though.

To replace it, can't you just unbolt the trans and slide it back just enough to get it in, without pulling the SW exhaust, etc. etc.?


Not 100% positive but I believe you can. You'll need to drop the cross member as low as it will go, possibly remove the trans mount, maybe not, and lift it up over the cross member while sliding back. I'm quite sure it would be a little tight but doable. I didn't have S.W. with the auto and my new trans is way way way more narrow than yours, but also much taller. Maybe ask Zack?

Not sure I'd fuss with a stock converter of that age though. I've learned the hard way too many times that its easier to pay credit cards than to do **** twice to save a buck..


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[tbone]

I have a little credit left on my CC, a little money in my checking, a halfway decent commission check coming this week and a wife that is not real happy about shelling out s*** to help pay for this.

"And 4 bald tires on my pickup truck".

[tbone]

Maybe it's not the TC at all. But I betcha it is.

I wonder how much it is to rebuild a stock one with a couple upgrades?

[justbob]

I have a little credit left on my CC, a little money in my checking, a halfway decent commission check coming this week and a wife that is not real happy about shelling out s*** to help pay for this.

"And 4 bald tires on my pickup truck".


Sounds like a country song. Or maybe western?


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[tbone]

Sounds like a country song. Or maybe western?


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

It is. Forget which one. He's got no credit on his credit card and 4 bald tires on his pickup truck.

[JoeBoomz]

The converter will be a big PITA to change without pulling the motor or trans entirely. To get it inserted properly in the bell housing requires full access to be able to keep it straight and rotate it inwards.

For the hassle, put a few extra bucks into it and get a new converter. Re-using a stock one is risky and failing that you will be out another 50-100 in transmission fluid for another swap again later.

I think you can get a Precision Industries converter for under $900. TCI converters might also be good and much cheaper - I've never tried them.

[Zack]

I'm sure if you put out a want as you could find a stock converter for 100 bucks

[RacerX]

If that IAT2 sensor was reading 160 deg and you're having intermittent intercooler pump issues, it's reading right and doing it's job. I had readings of 140 deg in 80 deg weather at LVD a couple weeks ago. If that pump isn't working right, don't be surprised if you see over 200! Don't buy cheap relays either! Stock TC is fine. I'm running a stocker and pulled a best of 11.93 in the 1/4. BUT, if your TC worked fine NA, that's NOT the problem.
Patience, it's worth it in the end. :)

[tbone]

We let the engine cool down for an hour with fans and the IAT read 160 right away. Trust me, and especially Tim Barth. IT'S A BAD SENSOR.

I fixed the pigtail on the intercooler. Wasn't an issue anymore. Let it run for a while to cool things down.

When the alternator failed he was delving into the TC as a possibility of the power loss. That's why I'm asking about it. I hope to GOD it's not the issue.

[RacerX]

Gotcha. If you went through a total cool down, fixed the pump problem and it read that, I tend to agree. At least it's mostly minor chit. Your guy will sort it out. :beer:

[tbone]

My friend thinks the TC is the issue more than anyone else. Of course he spent $1300 on his so.........

[Blackened300a]

My friend thinks the TC is the issue more than anyone else. Of course he spent $1300 on his so.........

My tuner thought it was a TC issue when my car was not making power and felt held back on the dyno. Turned out my SW cat came unravelled and clogged the exhaust. May wanna look into that since they are notorious for coming apart especially under boost.
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=90220

[tbone]

I remember your post about your cat. I'll mention it to him.

[tbone]

I want to ditch the breather I put on my car and put the oil cap back on. I have the oil cap, but the part it screws to on the valve cover is missing. It's just a smooth bore hole on the valve cover. I don't even remeber what the part looks like or anything. Anyone know what I'm talking about or where I can get the part quick?

[justbob]

The oil cap boss is machined into the cover..?
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/12/a4ajyjad.jpg


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[tbone]

Mine isn't like that. It's a raised 1" smooth bore shaft on the inside and outside coming off the valve cover. I can't remember exactly how it went together, but my oil cap has nothing to screw to.

You can see it in the 1st pic in Post #91, page 7.

[justbob]

Okay. I see it now. You just need to unscrew that fitting.


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[justbob]

Make it look like this.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/12/e8y8y9a5.jpg


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[tbone]

Maybe that fitting came with the breather. I can't remember, been a long time. Thanks.
I have thought over time that I sure did pay a lot for it from Metco.......

[tbone]

You are right. You can see the adapter in the pic. Duhhh...on my part.
It looks like it's molded right into the cover.

http://www.metcomotorsports.com/prodimages/large/MBR0013-1-1.jpg

[TraV8]

Tbone i feel your pain with the Eaton Swap. i have been fighting mine for the past month and last night i finally just brought it up to the pro speed shop in my area and said here ya go call me when its running... WAY over budget myself.

[tbone]

Hopefully breather removed, new IAT2, new alternator and further fiddling = WIN.
Parts are delivered at MPH but who knows when Tim will get to it. Dyno booked for over a month. He says if he gets one that goes real smooth and fast he will sneak it in.

I spoke with Jeff at Mo's. They did a tune on a Roadrunner converter like mine except 3500 stall (mine is 3000) with no issues. He used to work with Tim and knows he will get it. He said I should expect between 420 and 440 hp and @450 torque at the wheels.

Travis (Musclemerc) told me to give him a call. Nice guy.

[tbone]

Here's a pic of the finished motor at the tuner.

I'm stopping over there tomorrow before work to check on the parts ordered and make a couple changes.

[tbone]

A couple more.

38641

38642

[tbone]

Drove all the back to Rockford this am to check on my car. Breather is now history, new OEM alternator installed and grounded to battery for extra precaution (thanks Chitown), new Cobra IAT2 sensor installed and car is waiting for dyno. Tim says sometime next week when he gets one that goes easy and fast. He only schedules 1 per day.