Supercharged Marauder Throwing Code P0340 NEED HELP PLEASE!

[BackNBlack]

All of a sudden CHECK ENGINE light comes on last Saturday after a 35 minute drive (stopped for an errand, came back out...started up...CHECK ENGINE)

Car ran fine and continued to while I searched and found closest Auto Zone for an OBD2 Read. 2 Codes found...1 regarding Cam Timing and 1 regarding Fuel Pressure Sensor Gauge - NOTE: I was an IDIOT and didn't write down the actual codes! Asked AZ Kid to "Clear the Codes' and i drive 40 mins home...NO CODE...NO sign of any concern...drives fine.

Arrive home...shut down...walk inside for few minutes...come back out...Start up & - CHECK ENGINE ! So I park the car till today...Start the car...CHECK ENGINE...drive to another AZ...OBD2 Reader scan and PO340 is the Code...only ONE CODE...

PO340 = Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit (Bank 1 or Single Sensor)

Who has thoughts? Ideas? Solutions? Warnings? Insight?

NEED HELP PLEASE!

[RocsMerc]

I don't have experence with that particular error code, but it sounds self explanatory. The camshaft position sensor is located at the top of the block facing the front of the car on the far right and left extremes, just below where the heads meet the block. I have no idea if it's as simple as just swapping it out, or if connecting a new sensor requires calibration, but they sell the part in Autozone for $28. If you're comfortable working on your car yourself, just do some research to find out if "Circuit A" is the passenger or driver side, and confirm that there's no special calibration required.

If there is calibration involved or if you're not comfortable working on it yourself, it might be worth just bringing it to a shop and letting them do it. If it really is just the sensor, it might not be as big and expensive of a job as your imagining.

[BackNBlack]

I don't have experence with that particular error code, but it sounds self explanatory. The camshaft position sensor is located at the top of the block facing the front of the car on the far right and left extremes, just below where the heads meet the block. I have no idea if it's as simple as just swapping it out, or if connecting a new sensor requires calibration, but they sell the part in Autozone for $28. If you're comfortable working on your car yourself, just do some research to find out if "Circuit A" is the passenger or driver side, and confirm that there's no special calibration required.

If there is calibration involved or if you're not comfortable working on it yourself, it might be worth just bringing it to a shop and letting them do it. If it really is just the sensor, it might not be as big and expensive of a job as your imagining.

Thanks SO MUCH for the response!

[Mr. Man]

Pull the connector to see if you have corrosion or a loose pin.

[BackNBlack]

Pull the connector to see if you have corrosion or a loose pin.

Thanks...I'll check (as soon as i find where it is?)

[Comin' in Hot]

If you change the sensor, get one from Ford

[BackNBlack]

If you change the sensor, get one from Ford

Thanks and I did.

UPDATE:

My dealer swapped in new Cam Timing Sensor (Bank 1) on the Driver's Side.
I had them check ALL the wiring for any rodent, splits, etc. and ALL wiring checked out perfect.
I also asked them to check the alternator which passed with flying colors @14.4-14.8 (NOTE: I read somewhere that alternator issues ((or beginning thereof)) could play a role in random codes. And with the trilogy Twin Screw having the alternator turned around backwards, I wanted to make sure it was still in proper function...it IS)

They cleared the Code...I drove it home from the dealer...NO "Check Engine" light...turned OFF the car...let it sit a couple minutes, and when i started it back up..."CHECK ENGINE"

ANY other thoughts from ANYONE would be GREATLY appreciated!

Thanks in advance!

[BackNBlack]

If you change the sensor, get one from Ford

Thanks and I did.

UPDATE:

My dealer swapped in new Cam Timing Sensor (Bank 1) on the Driver's Side.
I had them check ALL the wiring for any rodent, splits, corrosion, bad/bent connections etc. and ALL wiring checked out perfect.
I also asked them to check the alternator which passed with flying colors @14.4-14.8 (NOTE: I read somewhere that alternator issues ((or beginning thereof)) could play a role in random codes. And with the trilogy Twin Screw having the alternator turned around backwards, I wanted to make sure it was still in proper function...it IS)

They cleared the Code...I drove it home from the dealer...NO "Check Engine" light...turned OFF the car...let it sit a couple minutes, and when i started it back up..."CHECK ENGINE"

ANY other thoughts from ANYONE would be GREATLY appreciated!

Thanks in advance!

[FordNut]

Thanks and I did.

UPDATE:

My dealer swapped in new Cam Timing Sensor (Bank 1) on the Driver's Side.
I had them check ALL the wiring for any rodent, splits, corrosion, bad/bent connections etc. and ALL wiring checked out perfect.
I also asked them to check the alternator which passed with flying colors @14.4-14.8 (NOTE: I read somewhere that alternator issues ((or beginning thereof)) could play a role in random codes. And with the trilogy Twin Screw having the alternator turned around backwards, I wanted to make sure it was still in proper function...it IS)

They cleared the Code...I drove it home from the dealer...NO "Check Engine" light...turned OFF the car...let it sit a couple minutes, and when i started it back up..."CHECK ENGINE"

ANY other thoughts from ANYONE would be GREATLY appreciated!

Thanks in advance!

Is it the same code? If it is the same code, there are 3 electrical connectors that could be loose or corroded. The one at the sensor, the one where the engine harness connects to the chassis harness, and the one that connects to the PCM.

[BackNBlack]

Is it the same code? If it is the same code, there are 3 electrical connectors that could be loose or corroded. The one at the sensor, the one where the engine harness connects to the chassis harness, and the one that connects to the PCM.

Thanks for the response! They SAY they checked the circuit with a volt meter ALL the way back to the PCM.

So then my next question is...what IF...the Camshaft IS ACTUALLY "out of timing"...and the sensor is ACTUALLY working...how DIFFICULT is it to check/adjust on our motors? Can you do it in the car, by just removing the fly wheel? Or...do you have to take OFF the front cover of the motor (BIG JOB!)??

[FordNut]

Thanks for the response! They SAY they checked the circuit with a volt meter ALL the way back to the PCM.

So then my next question is...what IF...the Camshaft IS ACTUALLY "out of timing"...and the sensor is ACTUALLY working...how DIFFICULT is it to check/adjust on our motors? Can you do it in the car, by just removing the fly wheel? Or...do you have to take OFF the front cover of the motor (BIG JOB!)??

It can be done in the car, but it's a pretty big job. Cam covers, timing cover, front pulleys/belts, harmonic balancer would need to come off, maybe more.

[BackNBlack]

It can be done in the car, but it's a pretty big job. Cam covers, timing cover, front pulleys/belts, harmonic balancer would need to come off, maybe more.

OUCH! Sounds 'Spensive...

Dealer is wanting to help...their offer today is to schedule with their BEST Master Tech (1st available date October 9th) ...
$600.00 MIN UP FRONT...turn him loose...and call with a resolve or an estimate after $600 hourly rate met...

I don't have much choice. Wish I was closer to who helped me with the build. But moving to the middle of nowhere was just TOO GOOD!

[FordNut]

OUCH! Sounds 'Spensive...

Dealer is wanting to help...their offer today is to schedule with their BEST Master Tech (1st available date October 9th) ...
$600.00 MIN UP FRONT...turn him loose...and call with a resolve or an estimate after $600 hourly rate met...

I don't have much choice. Wish I was closer to who helped me with the build. But moving to the middle of nowhere was just TOO GOOD!

Trailer it to Marty.